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330Cd Turbo and idle issues

3K views 13 replies 3 participants last post by  Scottfreee3 
#1 ·
I have been looking for a solution to this on the net but I am having no joy. Hopefully someone here can help me out.

I have a 2004 330Cd. I have done a good bit of work to the car but I am suffering turbo issues and idle problems.

Firstly the Idle;

It only happens when idling. And it has done it once today and once a week ago. The engine can be cold or warm, doesnt seem to make a difference. I will come to a stop and the engine will revv between 750rpm to 800rpm twice every second. If I move up in the line of traffic to engine works fine and starts to do this little revv again when I come to a stop.

The second problem is the turbo. And this is really annoying.

It does not seem to work at all in 1st gear. If I go to 3500-4000rpm and change to second I will have no power at all (turbo will not kick in). And this will happen all the way to 3rd and 4th gear. However if I take my foot off the trottle and let the engine relax and go foot to the floor I got full boost.

For example, If I come out of a corner onto a main road and let the engine go over 2500k I will need to change into 2nd, take my foot off the trottle fully and then go back on fully to get boost. It feels as though the turbo acuator will not open unless the car is under 1500-2000 revvs.

I can have the same problem driving at 30mph. I might be in 4th gear doing 1500rpm, I will go for an overtake and I will have no boost. But if I release the trottle and go back on it I have boost?

The ECU has no codes. The only issue is with one of the active sensors. The "fuel system monitoring" sensor is red (should be green) but when I put 3ltrs of petrol into a full tank of diesel (wanted to clean her out for NCT) and had the EGR disconnected I had not revv problem, less boost isseus and the sensor showed green.

I had the EGR checked and it is worling fine.

As you can see I dont know where to look.

I am getting the fuel filter changed this weekend incase it is half blocked. Could it be a MAF, HPFP, turbo arm getting stuck, EGR not closing fully?

Your ideas would be greatly appricicated.

The work I have done to the car can be seen here incase I have already covered some of your ideas

James's 2004 E46 330Cd - BMW-Driver.net Forums

Thanks
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#4 ·
Got a new MAF today (bosch) and fitted it. There was no differnece. Car is still boosting and not boosting. It now feels as though when I put my foot down I lose power. There were 2 instances when I put my foot to the floor at traffic lights and I had loads of power. 5 second later I tried it again and no power. I was with a friend in a E39 525 (160-170bhp) vs my 330Cd (201bhp) and he was overtaking me with ease.

Now going to look at the turbo actuator control to see if the veins are not opening etc.

Any ideas?
 
#7 ·
I had the same issue on my E46 320d, couple of pointers, firstly get the MAP sensor cleaned, all that crap that builds up on the EGR valve also builds up inside the inlet manifold right were the MAP sensor is located. It is a bit of a pain to remove as it is right at the back but if you have not removed your swirl flaps (which you must) then it would be a good time to clean the manifold in caustic soda and clean/replace the MAP sensor. Strangely a dirty MAP will cause EGR error codes

From 2004 both M47 and M57 engines (yours) were fitted with electronic actuators which have a bad habit of over heating and doing exactly what you describe, it is royal pain. It usually shows as a actuator short circuit fault code but it is not a short, it is just overloading. I found cleaning the MAP sensor improved it and I assume because it was measuring boost more accurately and so applying turbo boost more progresively. It could also be an issue with the VGT mechanism in the turbo, they do soot up over time.

Have you changed the engine breather by the way, they also clog up and cause turbo issues if left
 
#8 ·
Thanks Matthew. I though just that. My map is on top so is easy to change. I changed that and no difference. The flaps are gone (I did get a swirl flap fault after I removed them) and strangely the car runs with no lag with the swirl flap actuator disconnected but not at full power. Also the actuator is working at startup, but could still be damaged from over heating so going to replace that next.

And I don't have any ecu fault codes too. Only an egr and swirl flap fault and glowplug fault when plugged into a proper diagnostics
 
#13 ·
Here is the swirl flap actuator. It keeps giving me error codes. I don't know if it causes the boost problems. Everyone says its not but it and the ecu are all that's remaining to be changed.



However I can't source one. Anyone here can help me out?
 

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