Bodywork rusting, what are my options??? - Page 2

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  1.  
    #11
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    I've got to do a few bits on her car in the next week or so anyway so I'll take some pics when I get round to doing the rust and what not

    I may sound tight but I couldnt bear to spend that on a few spots of rust
     
     

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    #12
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    I have never had a rust repair that did not come back, after 2 to 3 years your shagged again. my advice is its cheaper to get a new wing etc in the long run then pay da monkey to hold you by the nuts.
    A new wing is not that expensive. its colour matching it to your car that is. and if they repair the rust they will charge £40 to £60 and hour labour so after 2 hours you may have as well of just drove up with a new wing and said. After noon..... paint that.
     
     

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    #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by badj View Post
    for the sake of the value of the car etc I'd be tempted to do it myself. Both mine and the mothers E36's are bright red (or as 'ze germans' call it, brillantrot. the rot part being ironic..) and I've just sanded back, killed it, filled it, sprayed it.
    did you use a air compressor and spray gun?
    Last edited by Ronnie; 03-09-2008 at 00:24.
     
     

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    #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveyBoy View Post
    I have some rust on the passenger side rear arch, sill and front door,one place quoted me 220 to do it but cant gaurantee how long itll last
    And another place quoted me 600-700 to fit a new arch and sill
    Iv attatched some pics-
    so.....what would you do?

    Exactly same place on my car on the rear arch.
    got mine going in the body shop in 2 weeks to get it sorted.
    i got a quote of £300 to do mine.which is about middle of the road of what i have been quoted.
    i was going to do it myself ,but matching up red can be quite tricky.
    so having the rear quater blown in to fade out the difference.its worth getting the job done properly if you going to keep the car for a few more years as when it come to selling it,it will still be in good shape..
     
     

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    #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamish262001 View Post
    did you use a air compressor and spray gun?

    when I did the sills last year I just used a can of hycote, but will use the compressor this year as I need to do some large areas on the coupe
     
     

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    #16
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    Well finally got my rear arch and sill done, Ill get some better pics at the weekend, it looks orange in this pic but the colour is spot on, well pleased with it


    Think Im gonna keep an eye out for a new door, probably be cheaper than getting it fixed.
     
     

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    #17
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    who ever does the job ask them to sand blast the areas too to check for porous holes determine whether the rust is from either a chip or from inside out if there are porous holes get them welded but dont go to heavy with a grinder as the heat advances corrosion and also ask them to use a metal chemical filler called belzona its expensive but will keep it at bay for a lot longer than your everyday body filler hope this helps....
     
     

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to scottyd For This Useful Post:

    SteveyBoy (05-03-2009)

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    #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottyd View Post
    who ever does the job ask them to sand blast the areas too to check for porous holes determine whether the rust is from either a chip or from inside out if there are porous holes get them welded but dont go to heavy with a grinder as the heat advances corrosion and also ask them to use a metal chemical filler called belzona its expensive but will keep it at bay for a lot longer than your everyday body filler hope this helps....
    Sounds like good advice m8 but doesnt really apply to me as I had a new arch put on
     
     

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    #19
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    It looks like a goos job of the wing. I spent ALL of last week treating and respraying the door of my E39. I wish I had just gone to the scrappies and got another door. All in I probably spent £50 in materials and a good full 5 days grinding, treating and respraying. Was not really worth the efforta and it turned out a shade darker in colour. It looks good though!

    By the way... there is an exellent rust converter & treatment called POR15 that I used on my girlfriends old mini. It works very effectivly and removes all rust (more than a grinder). It also leaves a coat of Zinc Phosphate on the surface, which if you remember from your chemistry days at school is basicly what galvinised metal is. The zinc is sacrafical through electrolisis to the Ferous metal.

    http://shop.ebay.co.uk/items/_W0QQ_d...etal&_osacat=0
     
     

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    #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveyBoy View Post
    Sounds like good advice m8 but doesnt really apply to me as I had a new arch put on
    mind if i ask what it cost to have a new arch welded in?
     
     

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