bmw e36 coupe rusted rear arches- what now? - Page 3

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    #21
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    The only thing I would say about filling pin holes (left from rust) with lead, is that the pin holes will have worse rust on the other side you can't see.
    If the rust is bad enough to have eaten through, even just pin hole size, if you were to cut out that section you'd see the hole was just the part that had eaten though, the rest would be very close and you'd be better off cutting out at least a few square cm to make sure you got all the affected steel out.
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    #22
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    ^^ Good idea Tom but i've had a proper look at it and its only at the very surface from a stone chip the rest of the car is immaculate. So i'm leaning towards e36cuope328's idea of drilling the very top to remove rust and then filling with lead. I don't mind doing the whole arch but a <3mm pin hole of rust doesn't warrant major surgery
     
     

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    #23
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    Spirit - if you have a look in Total BMW mag this months issue on page 46 it shows how a pro re-does the arch's
     
     

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    #24
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    well i think to myself,if it can be done then we can do it.. my way of thinking now
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    #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjbbuzz View Post
    well i think to myself,if it can be done then we can do it.. my way of thinking now
    You can, but unless it's groundhog day becoming a concert pianist on your first piano lesson, or in fact first couple of hundred is unlikely.


    Not trying to dampen your spirits, and I don't know what your mates welding is like but realistic expectations help, i.e. if you go for gold and come up short the results will likely be a lot less cosmetically pleasing than planning for bronze and expecting to make good with lead or filler.


    Put it this way I've been panelling cars up for MOT since I was 12, on the bench I can fold and weld clean steel into sump pans that will hold thinners (this is a good way to test COLD items for leaks as it is more searching than soapy water). On a good day I can weld a piece into a panel flush that once linished you can't see (until you have put a layer of primer on, yes paint tells a lot of tales) and I would dread trying to butt weld in an arch perfectly. It's a big piece to make a perfect fit and sustain a perfect weld all the way around. You couls have a couple hundred pulse or spot welds to make that distance and if you have a 1% error rate you could blow a couple of holes. Putt oo much heat in welding them up and, if you have gone into the vert, not the arch flare, large flat panels easily distort and you could be talking a whole load of time / filler / vorrection work to make good.

    Then there is longevity, once ground the chances that the weld is watertight from the rear are slim, so unless clean sealed and treated you can easily get a bubble.

    That said lap welds, if they get any water in, will suck the water all along the length via surface tension, can be combatted by a nick or stopping the lap before it meets other panels and corners.

    However, they aren't all that terrible. 99% of the welds holding your car together are spot welded lap joints.


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    #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by shamM3 View Post
    Spirit - if you have a look in Total BMW mag this months issue on page 46 it shows how a pro re-does the arch's
    Might well have a look at that, reading is a great way to improve at these things.


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    #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36Coupe328 View Post
    You can, but unless it's groundhog day becoming a concert pianist on your first piano lesson, or in fact first couple of hundred is unlikely.


    Not trying to dampen your spirits, and I don't know what your mates welding is like but realistic expectations help, i.e. if you go for gold and come up short the results will likely be a lot less cosmetically pleasing than planning for bronze and expecting to make good with lead or filler.


    Put it this way I've been panelling cars up for MOT since I was 12, on the bench I can fold and weld clean steel into sump pans that will hold thinners (this is a good way to test COLD items for leaks as it is more searching than soapy water). On a good day I can weld a piece into a panel flush that once linished you can't see (until you have put a layer of primer on, yes paint tells a lot of tales) and I would dread trying to butt weld in an arch perfectly. It's a big piece to make a perfect fit and sustain a perfect weld all the way around. You couls have a couple hundred pulse or spot welds to make that distance and if you have a 1% error rate you could blow a couple of holes. Putt oo much heat in welding them up and, if you have gone into the vert, not the arch flare, large flat panels easily distort and you could be talking a whole load of time / filler / vorrection work to make good.

    Then there is longevity, once ground the chances that the weld is watertight from the rear are slim, so unless clean sealed and treated you can easily get a bubble.

    That said lap welds, if they get any water in, will suck the water all along the length via surface tension, can be combatted by a nick or stopping the lap before it meets other panels and corners.

    However, they aren't all that terrible. 99% of the welds holding your car together are spot welded lap joints.
    maybe, but wont no till we try, i always thought that there was going to be some filler for the final finish,im prepared for that.. so if i took it to a body shop,they would be able to do the welding properly?
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    #28
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    I imagine any good body shop could weld rear arches buddy but thats just the thing, make sure it is a good body shop.

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    #29
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    Dam!

    E36Coupe328 - Fancy doing my arch or two

    Great advice!


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    #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devil318is View Post
    E36Coupe328 - Fancy doing my arch or two

    Strangely, got enough welding to do..........



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