bmw e36 coupe rusted rear arches- what now? - Page 2

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    #11
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    Definitely butt them up flush, edge to edge.
    Welding will have to be very slow, just tacks to hold in place then 'join the dots' waiting for things to cool between welds to try and stop it warping.
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    #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sphinx View Post
    It depends how badly they've rusted and how much metal you have to cut out to remove the rot.
    As long as you're not cutting out huge, hard to replicate/shaped panels, then you should be able to cut out simple templates to weld back in. If you're taking off a huge section however, then as said, get some replacement arch panels and weld them in. The trouble with pattern parts is they will need some fettling to get to fit properly and they will also be made of a thinner steel so prep is key! Weld through primer on the reverse side and plenty of cavity wax afterwards etc
    Weld through primer is ok but remember to clean it away from where you actually welding, as all the welding process sees is an impurity

    Get pattern parts anyway, cutting them up saves time making small repair sections.

    If you vlean it up and it is a small hole run a drill through it to bring it back to solid and lead it or weld it up.

    http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/wheelarch.htm


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    thats exactlly how i have asked him to do it.. i will be the one cutting,and he weld.. sure it will be fine..
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36Coupe328 View Post
    Get pattern parts anyway, cutting them up saves time making small repair sections.

    If you vlean it up and it is a small hole run a drill through it to bring it back to solid and lead it or weld it up.

    http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/wheelarch.htm
    ive already got the arches now. but im sure we will make it work out.. thanks for the link..
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjbbuzz View Post
    ive already got the arches now. but im sure we will make it work out.. thanks for the link..
    Another thing, but welding thin steel is one of tha hardest things you will ever do, add to that the degree of accuracy you need to cut it, as in no root gaps, if you aren't relatively good at welding anyway the chances are you will make a mess.

    Sometimes a small overlap and an edge setter tool, considering the joint is inside the car and shouldn't be splashed will give you a mush better shot at a good finish that lasts. Do you have a file?

    If not that rusty you might well find you can lose the join on the arch and not have to fill the flat panel at all.

    You could try leading the joint, that's supposed to hold rust back at least 7 years


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    Quote Originally Posted by E36Coupe328 View Post
    Another thing, but welding thin steel is one of tha hardest things you will ever do, add to that the degree of accuracy you need to cut it, as in no root gaps, if you aren't relatively good at welding anyway the chances are you will make a mess.

    Sometimes a small overlap and an edge setter tool, considering the joint is inside the car and shouldn't be splashed will give you a mush better shot at a good finish that lasts. Do you have a file?

    If not that rusty you might well find you can lose the join on the arch and not have to fill the flat panel at all.

    You could try leading the joint, that's supposed to hold rust back at least 7 years
    i have a file, was thinking of trying to get it done on the join of the arch butt welded..
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjbbuzz View Post
    i have a file, was thinking of trying to get it done on the join of the arch butt welded..
    If you mean the crease where the arch flare joins the main flat panel of the quarter you have a good chance of losing the sharp clear line. Keep joins away from lines like that where anything out of true is easily spotted.


    Butt welding an arch is expert level even if you do spend the time to get the fit right.

    If you go into the flare you more or less have a 2" strip to fill relatively flat.

    Get a bit of the same steel your welder will be welding, put it in the same position and see how he does.

    Also how are you going to hold them level? Plenty of the insulated magnets help.

    Don't get me wrong, if your guy is a welding expert, not MOT patch level go for it.

    If all you have are a mini grinder and some tin snips you are unlikely to be able to cut out a decent edge to work to

    However, unless well practiced you will probably use a lot more filler than you expected and / or end up getting two more arches and cutting out bigger.


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    Quote Originally Posted by E36Coupe328 View Post
    Butt welding an arch is expert level even if you do spend the time to get the fit right.

    If you go into the flare you more or less have a 2" strip to fill relatively flat.

    Get a bit of the same steel your welder will be welding, put it in the same position and see how he does.

    Also how are you going to hold them level? Plenty of the insulated magnets help.

    Don't get me wrong, if your guy is a welding expert, not MOT patch level go for it.

    If all you have are a mini grinder and some tin snips you are unlikely to be able to cut out a decent edge to work to

    However, unless well practiced you will probably use a lot more filler than you expected and / or end up getting two more arches and cutting out bigger.
    wow, dont wanna do it now...lmao
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    Good advice from e36coupe328

    I might try that leading technique. I've got 2 pinholes coming through on the nearside arch after leaving it parked outside over winter. Juts got to find somewhere cheap for leadstick, cheapest I can find on the bay are £70+ for more than i'll ever use
     
     

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    Starter kit

    Something like £7 a stick separately, but very little different if I remember rightly to the sticks of solder B&Q sell on the shelf


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