2003 E46 330ci - New to detailing, full kit info? - Page 2

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    #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BestGear View Post
    If you are new to machine polishing, a DA is easier to use... takes longer, vibrates, but removes mearkly all the risk of paintwork damage for a beginner. A rotary polisher gets the work done quickly, but generates a lot of heat... so you need to watch what you are doing or you can damage more than you fix.
    You have me worried now! I was thinking a rotary machine as it is faster, how easy is it to damage the paintwork?
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    #12
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    not very easy, bmw paint is very hard

    if you hold it in one spot and dont move it, it will burn through paint quite easily,

    The main diffrence between a rotary and a DA is:

    DA - oscillates, so even you hold it in the same place the motion is not the same, so heat build up is less, this is why it takes longer to remove swirls and marks

    Rotary - rotates, so if its held in one place the circle motion is the same and heat builds up quick, and cna burn through the clear coat. but is quicker at removeing marks for this reason
     
     

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    As Sam said BMW paint is extremely hard and even with a rotary you'd have to be very silly to damage the paint!

    Of course if you held the rotary in 1 spot for a minute pushing down hard then your going to burn the paint..

    Watch a few vids on youtube of people machine polishing with rotarys.. its very simple just follow their technique and enjoy the results!
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    RoX (01-04-2011)

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    #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by baderlfc View Post
    As Sam said BMW paint is extremely hard and even with a rotary you'd have to be very silly to damage the paint!

    Of course if you held the rotary in 1 spot for a minute pushing down hard then your going to burn the paint..

    Watch a few vids on youtube of people machine polishing with rotarys.. its very simple just follow their technique and enjoy the results!
    That makes me feel a little more confident as im sure i wont be doing that!
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    Quote Originally Posted by RoX View Post
    That makes me feel a little more confident as im sure i wont be doing that!
    Honestly mate if you use your common sense you won't have a problem..

    Until last summer I'd never machine polished a car and heard horror stories of people burning through their paint and needing resprays etc and was very worried.. then I actually bit the bullet, got a polisher and some pads and went for it..

    Apart from an aching shoulder for about a week I didn't have any problems..

    Just watch a few videos of people using rotarys to get the general technique and take your time.. you'll be fine

    And the results are outstanding... I would link a picture of my car after my 2 day detailing session last summer but all my photos have disappeared!!
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    Am i missing something here,swirl marks are caused by washing and polishing in a circular motion so how the chuffin hell can a rotary machine remove them.I would of thought it would make the problem ten times worse.
    Enlighten me pleeeze
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by dellboy1959 View Post
    Am i missing something here,swirl marks are caused by washing and polishing in a circular motion so how the chuffin hell can a rotary machine remove them.I would of thought it would make the problem ten times worse.
    Enlighten me pleeeze
    Swirls are predominantly caused by trapped grit and dirt getting dragged over the clear coat of paint. This marrs the paint which under concentrated light looks like swirls. So for this reason you should not use a sponge as it has a flat surface, a wash mitt has a deep pile which is better for the paint. The two bucket method also reduces the potential of damaging the paint with the theory that the dirt and grit is left behind in the rinse bucket, not the bucket with your clean soapy water in it. Then we get onto drying, a chamois will cause marring, a good quality soft deep pile drying towel should be used. There are even drying methods such as patting the car whereby you lay the towel on the panel and do not rub. Then wring it out and repeat, by doing so you eliminate the chance of scratches as the towel is not moving.

    Da's and rotary pads combined with good cutting compound will cut through a very thin layer of the clear coat removing these swirl marks and giving a great shine and paint depth. Then protect this fresh paint with a good wax to seal the piant. Then good washing and drying practice (with good quality products that do not strip wax and so on) will try and maintain this appearance for as long as possible.

    Hope this help!
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    #18
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    to added to e46330dsports post

    the cutting compound or polish that is used, works alot like sand paper, but of course very fine,

    it is abassive and takes some of the clear coat away, as the polish is worked the compound breakes down it gets finer

    So its like starting with a high grit sand paper and then finishing with a fine grit sand paper,

    to start with you use a high cut pad and high cut polish, then you use a lower cut pad and lower cut polish
     
     

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    RoX (01-04-2011)

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    #19
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    Is this order correct in how to detail a car;

    1 - Pre rinse with power washer

    2 - wash the car with a shampoo

    3 - dry using towel

    4 - clay

    5 - rinse

    6 - machine polish with high cut pad and high cut polish

    7 - machine polish with lower cut pad and lower cut polish

    8 - machine Seal or wax

    Is that correct? anything i may have missed? Also i have a silver car and believe from what i have read that i am better of sealing my car after a polish rather than waxing it? True?
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    #20
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    sounds good,

    wash wheels and rinse wheels could go for spot 2

    i dont bother rinsing after clay, just take your drying towel round wioth you and dry it as you go

    i would wash again between polishing and waxing to get rid of all the polish residue, you dont have to but it does make it a bit easier, then obviously dry again

    im not sure about the silver part, i thought you culd seal then wax,
     
     

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