M62 timing and timing guide rail tips


Thread: M62 timing and timing guide rail tips

Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 2 of 2
  1. M62 timing and timing guide rail tips 
    BMW Master
    Car Details
    TAM 11M's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    740i E38
    Year of Manufacture:
    Transmission Type:
    Car Body Type:

    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    West Midlands
    Thanked 62 Times in 54 Posts
    hi guys

    I noticed a member was needing help with his timing, and i thought i could actually make a proper thread on a few tips I learned on doing the job myself, will help saving a huge amount of money on not buying the special tools which BMW ask for.

    I know im new here but thought its worth sharing my adventure tips..

    first and most important, doing research.. many threads out there on others who have done the job, (normally they are doing the timing chain guide rails) look at what they have done, what they had to go through, and see what kind of ways to overcome situations.

    a few links to start you off:





    whenever you get stuck, go onto the TIS system and check the whole part, how its bolted on etc and go from there.
    i learn't that instead of taking off the fan clutch with a special tool etc, its much more simple to just take the whole water pump off, but be careful with the rear pipes, as if you disconnect them at the back then you will need to take the intake manifold off, (some do this anyways as they change the valley pan too)

    the most annoying and hardest part.. the crank bolt.. the stupidest most tightest bolt in the world.. honestly.. dont use a flywheel pin as this will just bend the flywheel pin and the TDC tab inside the flywheel (happened to me.. so please learn from my mistake) create something that will hold the crank in place, I had created the craziest thing which I can upload a picture off later to hold it in place, then with a long breaker bar and a bar ontop extending that i managed to undo the bolt with my hulk big brother which bending the bar to a nice curve, (it did go straight back into its normal possition so dont be afraid your going to break the bar) then after taking the bolt off, install the flywheel pin to hold the crank at TDC, best thing to do is remove everything around the engine to get access to the crank hub, undo bolt, rotate to TDC then start dismantelling the engine,

    another thing that helped me, i removed the whole front bumper, grill, aux fan and lights to get better access to the cars engine, helped a great deal.

    the links will help doing all the manual work, its very easy to be honest, bolt off and bolt on stuff, nothing to technical just need a lot of man power (or woman power im not sexist )

    now is where the fun and slightly more scarey bit is, the timing..

    heres a video on doing the timing etc on the car:

    and this video is VERY useful as you don’t need the disc setting special tool at all:

    those two video's alone help you do the timing yourself,

    specials tools: flywheel pin to lock on TDC (use anything that fits in as you won’t really be turning the engine that hard, I used a good sized allen key)

    camshaft locking plates - get a solid but easy to use material and make some blocks of your own, i used wood, (cleaned a lot after making so nothing is left in the engine) measure up everything so you know it sits in, and when you’re actually using something to move the camshafts around for example loosening the front cam bolts, just have someone holding the camshaft in place with a 27mm wrench or do what i did, hold in place with one hand and undo with the other

    for the tensioner block, just again use something that will block into place and hold tension in the chain, good tension nothing weak

    with it comes to lining up the plates on the front, attach the front cam covers and then line up the point shown in the second video (does help to bolt on the front cover so you know its on flush), then tighten and use the 27mm wrench to hold in place again,

    Vanos - the slightly more tricky bit, get a cheap volt meter as all your looking for is continuity, which shows a vault passing through the system, no need to spend $100+ on a top brand volt meter, I got mine for £10 done the job. what you need to do now is measure the two holes with can be see inside the vanos system, then from there make something that fits in and is strong enough to rotate it back and forth until you get rid of the oil in the vanos system, keep doing this until no oil and then move the system far left, check for a voltage (continuity) and then tighten up to torque measurements

    then job done, your all sorted, timing done and all the sensors will work great, i can understand if people think im slightly crazy in all this, doing a cheap way on a very expensive precious car, and trust me i love my car more than anything and i wouldnt do anything wrong to her, but im only 19 and I had to pay my own way through doing the job, and im a student so I thought of using my head instead of my hard earned cash, so dont be too affraid with the job, these are just tips I used, (so please dont blame me if something goes wrong im just trying to help )

    any questions just ask, i hope this helps someone one

  2. The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to TAM 11M For This Useful Post:

    hamish262001 (07-09-2011),Nat562 (18-09-2011),Ronnie (17-09-2011),Sphinx (30-09-2011),steve23002 (07-09-2011)

  3. Remove Advertisements

    BMW Guru
    Car Details
    Ronnie's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    See above
    Year of Manufacture:
    Never too old, never too new
    Transmission Type:
    Always manual
    Car Body Type:
    Usually 5 doors
    Ronnie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Bournemouth, Dorset.
    Thanked 7,051 Times in 5,322 Posts
    Cheers for the great post TAM 11M,

Tags for this Thread

View Tag Cloud

Posting Permissions
  • You may post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts