Right, after removing and cleaning the EGR last week I thought I'd give the maf sensor a go. I took some pics along the way as all of the other guides I'd seen didn't seem applicable to my engine. I haven't taken the car for a proper run since doing it as I also refurbed my leather seats, so not sure if it has improved performance/mpg, although it wasn't too bad before so not expecting miracles.
Ok, let's see if I can get the pics in the right place. Firstly you need to remove the main engine cover. It's seated using 5 screws, sorry don't know the name of the screw heads, I just find the part that fits remove these and the cover comes away easily
Next is the front engine cover. Gently prise the two plastic rivets upwards (Numbered 1and 2) You can get some thin pliers on the raised plastic column and pull it out, that allows the rivets to be removed. Careful not to lose them. Underneath the cover it is kept place by two plastic prongs which simply slide out of the holders (marked A and B) by moving the cover towards the car. Then just pull the plastic tubing (marked C) off which comes away easily and move the cover out of the way.
Next job is needed to make removing the air filter housing easier and that is needed as it makes removing the maf easier.
So, remove the cabin pollen filter by releasing the 3 spring clips on the filter housing and remove the cover. Then remove the filter. You'll then be left with the pollen filter housing as pictured. Remove the 4 screws marked and remove the cables that are attached to the housing. To do that you just need get your fingers underneath the clips and release them upwards. The cables carrier stays in place but allows you to remove the filter housing which comes away easily once the 4 screws are removed.
So far so easy! now to remove the air filter housing. Remove the 4 screws and the cover comes away. I didn't remove mine fully, just pulled it a couple of inches to give me more space.
Now remove the sensor connection (marked 1) and move it out of the way. Then pull the plastic cable out of its holder (numbered 2). There a couple of clips to pull it free from. You now need to remove the two screws (marked 3 and 4). Number 4 is out of sight but not too difficult to get to. I always have a nightmare with these screws, it was the same with my EGR valve. They come out easy enough but getting them back in can be a right nightmare. I threaded screw number 4 trying to get it back in. So good luck. Once those screws are out just pull the pipe away (numbered 5). The pipe is connected in a 3 places including to the maf but comes away easily. Putting this back on isn't too difficult but be warned that you can't see the lower connection when you replace this pipe so you'll have to feel to make sure it's seated back on its mating pipe, that in itself is also a little difficult due to lack of hand space. I hope that makes sense. It certainly will when you remove the pipe and you'll be able to clearly see where it connects to.
Now to the maf which is pictured below. Just remove the screws holding it to the air box. I've numbered one of the screw locations (numbered 1) and I'm sure there was a second but can't for the life of me remember where it is and it doesn't appear to be pictured, so it's possibly below. Sorry about that remove the maf and clean.
The maf didn't look as I imagined it to. I've removed one before from a peugeot (I know, I know) and it had a fine wire mesh in the middle with a metal filament in it. This one doesn't. Anyhow I sprayed it liberally with electrical contact cleaner which I believe was 100% alcohol to ensure I wasn't actually putting any oils or lubricating fluids on there and making things worse. I didn't tough any of the parts inside it as I believe they're incredibly delicate. I let the alcohol evaporate and put everything back together in reverse order. If you need to change the cabin pollen filter, air filter, crank case breather then its a good time to do it as you'll have access to those things once all of the trim and parts above are removed. Voila.
Took me maybe an hour, and a good deal of that was getting a bloody screw back in!