BMW E36 rear beam bush removal / subframe removal

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Thread: BMW E36 rear beam bush removal / subframe removal

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  1. BMW E36 rear beam bush removal / subframe removal 
    #1
    Bimmer Fan
    Car Details
    samgpr50's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    328i SE
    Year of Manufacture:
    1995
    Transmission Type:
    Manual
    Car Body Type:
    Saloon

    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Alsager
    Posts
    8
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    Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts
    Hi all.

    Just signed up and wanted to give something back to the forum and have not seen a really good guide to do this job so far. The pics aren't great also I am waiting for parts to arrive so this is just the strip down. I will update as I go along.

    So first off as always place the car on a flat surface and secure the front end with bricks. Undo the wheel nuts.

    After you have jacked up the car (I usually use the rear subframe) support the car with axle stands under the jacking points. This took a while as the angle I had the car was so great that they wanted to move.

    So after you have jacked the car up and supported it, it's a good time to get some penetrating spray on some of the subframe bolts as they will most likely be seized.


    A shot of one of the subframe bolts


    This is before I started


    Now it's time to start stripping down the rear end. I did mine the longer way as I am taking the car in for a full camber set up after it is finished. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE REAR TRAILING ARM! I chose to do this and if you do it should be marked up for positioning.

    You have to undo the bolts for the handbrake cable in the cabin. To do so lift the gator around it and there is two bolts. be sure to leave the handbrake DOWN after or you will not be able to pull the cables through!

    The first part I remover was the lower control arms. Quite an easy task also I marked the position of the washer with tip ex ready for re fitting. Then the shock has to go it's just one 18mm bolt.

    Next I removed the brake caliper and the disk this was only because I intend to fit braided hoses!

    Now to remove the top bolt on the spring mount. I undid this at the hub end for convenience, just remember to have something to support the hub. After you have removed the bolt it's time to crack off the 3 bolts around the rear trailing arm front bush. These will require a bit of force to undo!

    Last is to crawl under and pull the handbrake cable through. After this is done you can pop the driveshaft out of the diff and remove the asslembly.

    Repeat for the other side.



    Next is to remove the back box. This is a simple task which if you are reading this I am sure you will have done before. Climb under the car and you will see two joins (6cyl) and 4 13mm bolts with nuts. Undo these and come towards the rear of the car. Tip for doing them is to undo one and twist the whole assembly around to get at the second. The last two bolts for the exhaust should be on the back box. These should also be a 13mm nut and bolt. Depending what exhaust you have. Once you get close to undoing them fully either get something to support it with (standard ones are heavy) or draft in the friend you have on hand! Then it's just a case of wiggling it loose.


    Next you need to get right under the car to the rear of the prop shaft. There is 4 nuts on the back I think I used 5/8 spanner or around 15mm. I twisted the shaft so two nuts were on the bottom and got my friend to put it in gear. Cracked off two then took it out of gear turned it 180o and did the same again.

    Now for the fun bit!!!

    Put your jack under the rear diff or subframe.

    There are only 4 bolts to hold the subframe to the body. Now mine were a mix of 18mm and 17mm but I think mine had the wrong bolts. The easy way to undo them is with an impact wrench but since I didn't have one to hand I used a big breaker bar. By now the penetrating oil should have worked in and ake it easy. If not work the bolt back and forward. DON'T force it too much as it will snap and make a lot more work.


    After that you should be able to ease the frame down and out.


    Now for the bush removal.


    I refuse to buy the bush removal tool just for my car so I went with the fun burn them out method. This took quite a while but it gives you a perfect excuse to get a beer (I recommend 6 for each bush!!)


    So this is the car how I have left it. While the frame is off I have so far replaced the drop links and anti roll bar bushes. Also I have given it a quick coat of paint. I will take more pictures tomorrow hopefully and post the rest of this diy!


    A look at the subframe bolts and anti roll bar.


    A shot of the anti roll bar drop link


    Looking down the car with the exhaust removed






    And finally the best part!





    Subframe out and very dirty and a little melted.


    To give you an idea how the bushes looked after I was finished with them.


    How the car stands now!





    I gave everything a quick coat of paint just as I doubt it will ever come off again.

    So it has been raining all day today and some of the parts have still not turned up! It may be a few extra days before I sort it all out as I have just ordered a set of rear adjustable control arms since I will need to adjust the rear camber.

    So all the bits turned up over the weekend... Well the bits to do the job. So I fitted the bushes into the subframe and to be fair they were the easiest poly bushes I have ever fitted!

    Here are the new bushes








    So after 10 mins of fiddling I decided to try and fit the subframe. Now I choose to put the diff in after as it was less weight with being on my own. If you can get help this is really helpful and it would be easier to put the diff in with the frame out!!



    So there is the frame in place also I fitted the camber arms after I had placed it.





    So next up was the diff. I did manage to drop it a couple of times as lying on your back it is quite heavy and difficult to position. Here was the final attempt when it went in!



    So with the propshaft fitted to the diff I bolted it in and moved on to fitting the hubs exhaust etc....



    A nice view of the new arms on and roughly in place. Just for the record NEVER support your calipers by the brake hose!!! The only reason I did was because before the car will be used again they will all be replaced and these ones binned. I can't stress this enough!





    Finally back on the wheels. Just waiting for the brake hoses to arrive and then bleed them through. Also I have fitted new arb front bushes.






    EDIT: To add photos and update!
    Last edited by samgpr50; 21-08-2012 at 12:24.
     
     

  2. The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to samgpr50 For This Useful Post:

    dazza316i (15-08-2012),jm-flare (10-01-2013),pipcars (16-08-2012)

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  4.  
    #2
    Bimmer Fan
    Car Details
    samgpr50's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    328i SE
    Year of Manufacture:
    1995
    Transmission Type:
    Manual
    Car Body Type:
    Saloon

    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Alsager
    Posts
    8
    Thanks
    0
    Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts
    Ok so this is turning into more of a project than a quick job. Since taking it apart I have ordered a few extra bits like braided hoses and adjustable control arms. Also I have just had my poly anti roll bar bushes through!

    So hopefully the rest of the parts arrive tomorrow and I can get on with putting it back together! I think I am coming to the conclusion that it is a shame to only use this on a road now so I may look at tracking it when it's done. After this is built up the handling and brakes should be very good. I already have drilled and grooved disks with a nice pad. Also all the bushes will be poly... So then it's time to think about getting a little more power out of the old man!
    Bmw E36 328I SE, adjustable front and rear camber, coilovers, race clutch, braided hoses and a nut at the wheel =p
     
     

  5.  
    #3
    Bimmer Fan
    Car Details
    e36cheeseman's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    e36 328i
    Year of Manufacture:
    97
    Transmission Type:
    manual
    Car Body Type:
    coupe

    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    kent, orpington
    Posts
    1
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    Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
    hey mate does these kock when they have perished?
     
     

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  7.  
    #4
    BMW Fanatic
    Car Details
    duckhunt's Car Details
    Model of Car:
    e36 328i
    Year of Manufacture:
    1999
    Transmission Type:
    Manual
    Car Body Type:
    Sport Coupe

    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    london
    Posts
    37
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    Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
    nice one.
     
     

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