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    #31
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    Ah, forgot about shot blasting. Explains the slightly pitted effect. Looks like I have a mission on my hands then. Thanks for the help guys. Very much appreciated!!
     
     

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    Disco Stu (17-09-2011)

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    #32
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    I have found a bit of 240 w&d before the 400 helps a lot. Managed to get one pretty much perfect in around 3 hours (I had already nitromorsed the lip before hand so it was just around the bolts to do and then sand like a mother.

    Only done 2, just the other 2 to go.

    Worst part is the smooth/sore fingertips from the sanding
     
     

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    Tim323 (13-09-2011)

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    #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by quigleyjames50 View Post
    Worst part is the smooth/sore fingertips from the sanding

    lol mt finger prints are only just comeing back
     
     

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    #34
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    Top guide i have just started my spare

    Only thing that i am unsure of is, surely the wheels need some kind of protective layer ??
     
     

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    #35
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    i was thinking the same thing?
     
     

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    Matticus (04-10-2011)

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    #36
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    Just keep on top of cleaning them..

    I use poorboys wheel sealant. Lacquer them by all means, once it gets chipped you'll be back to square one in no time imo.
     
     

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    #37
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    If you keep on top of them (cleaning wise) then they'll be fine. You could lacquer them, I wouldn't though. One stonechip and you'll have to strip the lacqer and re-do it. I rise my wheels once a week and autosul them every couple of months, there's no corrosion on them..
     
     

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    #38
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    Well in getting there with the wheels and I'm going to build one up in the next week or so to boost my enthusiasm about the amount of mind numbingly boring sanding. But I need to invest in some thread lock. What would people recommend. I did a bit of research and this is what I came up with -

    http://www.loctite.co.uk/cps/rde/xch...on%3Dsearch%7C
     
     

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    gibbo300 (13-03-2012)

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