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    #11
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    Mark_F's Car Details
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    Interesting posts. I'm very open minded about all of this and I like hearing your views.

    Before the engine even runs the evo system is at a disadvantage in being an extra 16kg. I reckon that's roughly the weight of the spare wheel.

    I think ideally you would mate the manifolds to a custom s/s mid section, for sub 250hp I don't see the need for the mid section to be twin pipe.. or the size bore that the m3 uses. Quite a bit of weight could be dropped off that.

    The backbox can be gutted of all the sound deadening which would reduce the weight by quite a bit, this is something I am considering but I'd be worried about the resale value / the neighbors filing an antisocial behaviour order.

    Having read up on the M3 manifold removal and refit, the rack link does need to come off which would have saved a lot of time in the first place if I'd started by doing that.
     
     

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    #12
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    Quick update, this is where we are up to. Will post more words later.

     
     

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    #13
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    sa utah's Car Details
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    You seem to have a lock of aircon pipes which make yours look a whole lot more accessible than mine!!
     
     

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    #14
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    I ended up removing the aircon pipes, you can still see one cable tied out the way in the pic above. I'll likely just remove the full system, pump, radiator etc to try and recoup some of the 16kg the M system added.

    Ok, so..

    I removed the rack link which was a bit of an arse to do as I was trying to remove it from the rack first. The correct way to do it is, loosen both 13mm bolts and remove the screws from both ends. Drive a flat head screw driver into the knuckles to widen them and slide the rack end knuckle all the way down the shaft towards the rack. You should then be able to slide the steering wheel end knuckle off the shaft and then slide the rack end back up and off.

    I also removed the lower brace to make locating the new manifolds easier as they have quite a long tail on them. Two 16mm bolts on either side, I removed the driver's side completely and loosened the passenger's side allowing me to spin the brace round and out of the way.

    Before rack link is removed;



    Rack link off, more room to work.



    Here you can see both shaft ends, circled.






    Here we have £75 of nuts and gaskets. I got genuine 323 studs, nuts. M3 downpipe gaskets but the exhaust gaskets are not bmw.



    I cleaned up the head flanges and installed the front bank studs first and trial fitted the front bank. It wouldn't have been possible to get the rear bank in with the front bank located. So I installed the rear studs too, then placed the front bank loose in the bay and manouvered the rear bank in to position. With both manifolds in the bay, you can then locate them onto the studs. - DON'T FORGET THE GASKETS!!!



    With both manifolds in position, it became very difficult to take any useful pictures from below and you can't see a lot from above apart from the manifolds themselves.







    All I can say, is WHAT AN ARSE OF A JOB. I thought the hard part was getting the old manifolds off. It isn't. Getting nuts on all 24 studs and tightening them is the hardest part of this job. The front bank is fairly easy to get at, the inner most runner of the front bank being the hardest to get at. Before I ran out of time today I managed to tighten 10/12 of the front bank and just 4/12 of the rear. Even getting the nuts onto the studs is a challenge let alone getting a socket in there..

    Will update more tomorrow on how I get on.
     
     

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    #15
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    kiwi328's Car Details
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    Doing well. I know how much of a pita taking he headers off is and i feel your pain.
    There are most definately gains to be made. I'm sure people will say otherwise but here is some proof: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/...showtopic=9096
    I was a bit surprised at how many kinks are in the m3 headers.
     
     

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    #16
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    Just to confirm, the exhaust is now fully fitted. The rear bank was pretty tedious. The majority of the nuts are accessed from above and I used a combination of spanners and 3/8 drive sockets.



    I've still to refit the rack link and I'll need to get a mid section support bracket as the M3 one is different from the 323 one. - Even though my 323 one was rusted off, which explains a knocking I've been getting.

    Hasn't been run yet either so can't comment otherwise. I've completely removed the aircon now too as I can't remember the last time it was gassed. Will weigh up what I've removed and see how much I've saved.
     
     

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to Mark_F For This Useful Post:

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    #17
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    I`ve successfully fitted a new rear manifold today in 3 hours, on ramps. No need to remove aircon pipes, brace under the car or the front manifold.

    Manifold came out from below no problem as I`d unbolted the exhaust in both places. Now that i`ve done it I reckon I could do it again in half the time.

    11mm socket, various length extensions and a small driver. Simples. Runs like a dream. Next job is to sort my front suspension. Fresh everything including Bilstein B8`s I think.
     
     

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    #18
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    I'd do a 323 manifold replacement again no worries. But I'd have to be seriously talked into doing an M3 job. As said previously, even if the engine was on a pallet, the M3 manifolds would be a pig to remove / refit.
     
     

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    #19
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    Ha! Just when I thought I was finished..

    The backbox is only sitting in position in the photo above. When I went to mate it to the center section, I found that both pipes on the backbox are female type. The center section has one male one female. I've had a look at all the m3 exhaust parts for sale on ebay and had a look on real OEM and can't confirm if this is normal?
     
     

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