e36 325i - All this blood and sweat for 172 horses =[ - Page 5

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    #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistreku View Post
    you could try raising the pressure little by little, until the idle starts to be less smooth. then give it another go, and lower the pressure if necessary. and one other thing you could try: disconnect the lambda sensor and go for a test. see if anything changes. keep us posted!

    gabriel
    I was thinking of taking the battery leads off and joining them to get rid off the static. I remeber once it spat its dummy out and would not idle but I done that and she was fine.
    And wont disconnecting the lambda sensor just not let it run? Or does it just drop it to a default setting if no lambda signal is recieved?
     
     

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    #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by captain_chaos View Post
    I was thinking of taking the battery leads off and joining them to get rid off the static. I remeber once it spat its dummy out and would not idle but I done that and she was fine.
    And wont disconnecting the lambda sensor just not let it run? Or does it just drop it to a default setting if no lambda signal is recieved?
    i've done the same thing last summer, after my lambda sensor started acting up. loss of power in the beginning, but after a while misfires and worse stuff. couldn't drive it anymore so i disconnected the lambda. went like a dream! and kept it that way until last week, when i finally got around fitting a new sensor. it works fine, don't worry. it's just that your mileage will drop. anyway, do it just for diagnose, see if runs better/pulls harder. it did the trick for me. and if it does, just replace it. a new sensor is around £60 on ebay (NGK).
     
     

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    #43
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    Right. Sorry for taking so long but been out with the lambda sensor disconnected and it seemed to go well but not 50 bhp faster.
    Then had the lambda connected, disconnected the battery. And wired in the Check Engine Lamp. The Foot test works a treat. At first came up with an error code 1221. Then errased it and checked again after running the engine. The code went. Then took it for a drive and got a code 1222. Erased that again, drove it and now Im getting an error code 1215. But the engine seems to idle fine. Would the fact that I put on a big honking Green Cotton filter matter? Got the filter strapped to the MAF.
    Could something like an air leak at the inlet manifold do this?
    At the moment the Im running the fuel pressure at 4bar max and the bottom end torque seems to have came back.
     
     

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    #44
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    right.. 1221 was because you d/c the lambda. 1222 prolly because car is running a bit richer than its parameters, due to the FPR. so no worries here. now, i would worry a bit about that last code, which is the MAF. either it's on it's way out, or the error could be an air leak as well. i think best thing would be if you had another MAF to borrow from someone, and see if it changes anything. and also look for air leaks, especially the intake boot, where the 2 hoses connect. they tend to split. although, if there was an air leak, i think the idle would be rougher. but it's worth checking, as it's free.

    if you were any closer, i would've helped gladly with test parts from my car.

    p.s. glad you sorted your obd!


    l.e.: i just realized you said air filter strapped to the maf. although i doubt that will flash an 1215 code, it will decrease performance pretty drastically, because of the heat soak. if you still have the oem box, put it back on, erase all faults and give it another go. i pretty sure you'll see some performance improvement. for the air filter, you'll need to bring it closer to the headlight and put a heat shield on, otherwise it's not such a great mod, you'll end up losing good power. not 50bhp, of course, i'm sure this is not the major prob, but i think it's one of them.
     
     

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    #45
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    Ah. I see, will put the old air box back on and have another go tomorrow. Is it possible that one of the o rings could leak the air from where the inlet manifold joins to the cylinder head? And I had some problem with idle when I first started the car with the M3 cams but after couple hours of belting it throught the north yorkshire dales with a 100 mile bed in down the motorway, it was fine and dandy.
    Would you be able to confirm that mods such as US M3 cams, decat and bored out throttle body would not need a remap? As I'm still running the stock ecu.
    The guy who dyno'd my car, said since it ran too lean, the ecu would not let the timing to advance fully. Now it runs lovely and rich but not flooded. Can actually smell a bit of petrol from the exhaust. Could it be something to do with the Vanos or the O2 sensor?
     
     

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    #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by captain_chaos View Post
    Ah. I see, will put the old air box back on and have another go tomorrow. Is it possible that one of the o rings could leak the air from where the inlet manifold joins to the cylinder head? And I had some problem with idle when I first started the car with the M3 cams but after couple hours of belting it throught the north yorkshire dales with a 100 mile bed in down the motorway, it was fine and dandy.
    Would you be able to confirm that mods such as US M3 cams, decat and bored out throttle body would not need a remap? As I'm still running the stock ecu.
    The guy who dyno'd my car, said since it ran too lean, the ecu would not let the timing to advance fully. Now it runs lovely and rich but not flooded. Can actually smell a bit of petrol from the exhaust. Could it be something to do with the Vanos or the O2 sensor?
    lol, i thought you already had it chiped. you defo need to get a chip for your mods. all your mods tend to get a lean afr. the fpr improved the mixture somewhat, but you definitely need another soft for that. vanos has nothing to do with top end power, only mid-range power/torque. o2 sensor i'd say it's good as well, since it didn't make any major difference when you d/c it.
     
     

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    #47
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    Ahh, that explains alot then. I think in that case I will try and sort the error codes out that are on at the moment and leave it till the engine comes out for a pre-Turbo rebuild
     
     

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    #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by captain_chaos View Post
    Ahh, that explains alot then. I think in that case I will try and sort the error codes out that are on at the moment and leave it till the engine comes out for a pre-Turbo rebuild
    if it's your daily driver, i would recommend a S/C, rather than turbo. i think it's more reliable and definitely easier to drive. not as powerful as a turbo, though, but should be enough. and you won't need an engine rebuild. regarding the chip, i've been talking to a guy from germany, who does chips. i couldn't strongly recommend him, i haven't bought anything from him yet, but he seems to be all right. he sells his chips on ebay, but he also has a physical address, unlike most ebay chip vendors, with dyno and everything. i know usually ebay chips are crap and everything, but for £50, i'd give it a go. maybe he can sort you out with a chip for your mods. lemme know if you want his email.
     
     

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    #49
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    I been thinking about this alot and with a bit of pointers from gstuning, I have decided with the turbo route. Im building the car as a drift monster and it would mainly be driven on weekends as I have a second car sorted out which is a bit of a jigsaw puzzle
    Since my shell has been sideswiped before I bought it, It has been done right, the body has been straightened properly but I just would not want to put too much power through it. I bought a 323 coupe for 700 quid with 90k on the clock
    That shell is in mint condition, the arches are just starting to rust so I can get the whole body work sorted out.
    And then here it comes. My M50 lump is coming out for a rebuild and a turbo and. The M52 engine before hand is coming out from the 323 and getting serviced and going into my current shell so I have to worries for a year.
    Then once the 323 shell is ready and the M50 engine is done, the M50 is going into that and the my old shell with the M5s engine is going to be a runabout.
    Hope this makes sence
     
     

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    #50
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    hardly, lol.. just kidding, i got the idea. then you're sorted, if it will be mostly a track car, it's all good.
     
     

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