e36 325i - All this blood and sweat for 172 horses =[ - Page 4

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    #31
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    Hopefully its something minor and can be easily sorted because it should be pushing more bhp with your mods.
     
     

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    #32
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    you should be seeing way more bhp with those mods. i got ~170WHP, and that's without the bbtb and m3 cams. on stock injectors. regarding the injectors, i just swapped my stock green 325i injectors with pink ones (328i). runs great, but the idle is a bit rough-ish. so, if they work good on my car (without the cams), on yours i'd say it's a must. regarding the OBD, you can do it yourself (with the "stomp test", as in US spec e36), you just need to wire one pin from the x20 connector to the CEL in the instrument cluster. not that hard, i did it in 20 minutes. prob is, you might not be able to get your codes unless you have either a proper chip (non-pirated, ebay version), or a stock ecu that you can run especially for the diagnose.

    i would check the fuel pump, the fuel filter and the injectors on that. for comparison, this was my AFR at that time, on stock injectors. now should be richer.
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    #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistreku View Post
    you should be seeing way more bhp with those mods. i got ~170WHP, and that's without the bbtb and m3 cams. on stock injectors. regarding the injectors, i just swapped my stock green 325i injectors with pink ones (328i). runs great, but the idle is a bit rough-ish. so, if they work good on my car (without the cams), on yours i'd say it's a must. regarding the OBD, you can do it yourself (with the "stomp test", as in US spec e36), you just need to wire one pin from the x20 connector to the CEL in the instrument cluster. not that hard, i did it in 20 minutes. prob is, you might not be able to get your codes unless you have either a proper chip (non-pirated, ebay version), or a stock ecu that you can run especially for the diagnose.

    i would check the fuel pump, the fuel filter and the injectors on that. for comparison, this was my AFR at that time, on stock injectors. now should be richer.
    Thanks for the info mate. What pin needs to be wired up? And where do I wire it to the Check Engine Light? Will I be able to get the error codes throught the Check Engine Light that way? Its worth a try
     
     

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    #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by captain_chaos View Post
    Thanks for the info mate. What pin needs to be wired up? And where do I wire it to the Check Engine Light? Will I be able to get the error codes throught the Check Engine Light that way? Its worth a try
    yes, you will be able to read your codes, but bare in mind that if your chip hasn't been done properly, it will only give you the 1211 code, which means something is wrong with the ecu. on a stock ecu, this should be pretty accurate, as this is the bmw fitted obd. on a chipped ecu as well, but as long as the chip has been done properly. and not only will you be able to read the codes, but to reset them, as well.

    wiring is pretty straight forward, you'll need to wire the pin 8 from the x20 connector (round one, near the fuses box) to pin 16 in the white connector from the instrument cluster. that can be done in no time, the only difficult bit here is finding a hole to get the wire from the x20 connector (under the bonnet) inside the car (to the pin 16 from the white connector, in the right side of the instrment cluster). me, i found a small hole near the positive socket of the car (big red cable).

    few more details on X20: as you can see, it's a 2 pieces connector. un-screw the top, and you'll split it in 2 halves: the upper one is the one with the holes, the bottom is the half with the pins. you'll already have 8 number wired in the upper part (should be a grey wire), you'll just need to continue from there with to the wiring to the pin 16 in the white connector from the instrument cluster.

    pics will make it pretty clear. if you need any other info, just ask.
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    #35
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    procedure:

    To read codes for an OBD I car, you start by turning the ignition key on (do not start the engine) and pressing the gas pedal to the floor five times within a period of five seconds. If you proceeded correctly, then the check engine lamp will light on for five seconds, then blink off, then blink on for 2.5 seconds, and then go off for another 2.5 seconds.

    After this, the computer will start to show you the trouble fault codes that are stored.

    The codes are given by short flashes of the check engine light, followed by short pauses. The codes are all four digit numbers. For example, the trouble fault code for monitoring the battery voltage level is 1231. This would show up flashing as "flash - pause - flash - flash - pause - flash - flash - flash - pause - flash." I suggest having a pen and paper handy when you do this, as the codes have a tendency to flash faster than you would think.
    If there is more than one fault code stored, then each code will be separated by a 2.5 second pause.

    When there are no more codes to be read, the computer will give the code 1000, which is one short flash, and then the light will remain off. Then the check engine light will flash a half-second and then turn off. To read the codes again, simply turn the ignition key off and on again and repeat the procedure with the gas pedal (five times within five seconds).

    To erase the fault code memory, first make sure fault code 1000 (short blink and then light goes out for long period) is present, then depress acellerator fully for at least 10 seconds. Read fault codes and check for 1444 code (no faults stored).

    all error codes are in the pdf file.

    "simples!"



    gabriel
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    Thanks for the info mate. Greatly appreciated. Will try it on Friday as right now Im revising for 2 uni exams this week. 3 weeks of torture left!

    But will let you know the outcome as soon as I read the codes
     
     

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    #37
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    no worries mate! good luck with the exams!
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by mistreku View Post
    no worries mate! good luck with the exams!
    thank you mate
     
     

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    #39
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    Right, decided to have some therapy after my yesterday's exam and put the injectors in last night.
    Put them in and my mate gave me an FSE adjustable fuel pressure regulator so I could try and up the fuel pressure abit. Got it set at 3.5 bar on full throttle and drove the car last night. Does not seem to be that much faster then it was Just seems alot smoother and the terrible flat spot that I had at around 4k revs is gone.
    Going to go and wire up the Check Engine light as said by mistreku so will be back with results of that later.
    Now just a question while Im doing all that. Have I got the fuel pressure set right? I thought that since the stock fuel regulator is 3.5bar max, then it be best to set this one up at this pressure. Any ideas?
     
     

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    #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by captain_chaos View Post
    Right, decided to have some therapy after my yesterday's exam and put the injectors in last night.
    Put them in and my mate gave me an FSE adjustable fuel pressure regulator so I could try and up the fuel pressure abit. Got it set at 3.5 bar on full throttle and drove the car last night. Does not seem to be that much faster then it was Just seems alot smoother and the terrible flat spot that I had at around 4k revs is gone.
    Going to go and wire up the Check Engine light as said by mistreku so will be back with results of that later.
    Now just a question while Im doing all that. Have I got the fuel pressure set right? I thought that since the stock fuel regulator is 3.5bar max, then it be best to set this one up at this pressure. Any ideas?
    you could try raising the pressure little by little, until the idle starts to be less smooth. then give it another go, and lower the pressure if necessary. and one other thing you could try: disconnect the lambda sensor and go for a test. see if anything changes. keep us posted!

    gabriel
     
     

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