1998 E36 328i - bore out - Page 4

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    #31
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    Not worth buying them brand spanking new, TBH. Wallet would take too much of a battering.
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

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    #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by mistreku View Post
    Not worth buying them brand spanking new, TBH. Wallet would take too much of a battering.
    I was thinking of buying a 325 block and then the crankshaft and piston and rods from scrap yard fro e46 330ci.
    then get the piston ring and crankshaft bearings changes so they are new

    before i do so, do u know if there is a way to absolutely find out if 330ci pistons will fit or just go with the manufacturing specs and take the risk ?
     
     

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    #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36_turbo View Post
    I was thinking of buying a 325 block and then the crankshaft and piston and rods from scrap yard fro e46 330ci.
    then get the piston ring and crankshaft bearings changes so they are new

    before i do so, do u know if there is a way to absolutely find out if 330ci pistons will fit or just go with the manufacturing specs and take the risk ?
    You could go with Trial and Error... Might be expensive though...

    you could be better off with buying a E46 330 with rear end damage - Take the parts you need and break the rest and recover the money back on selling the good bits!!!


    E36 328i se - Journal
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    #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by E36_turbo View Post
    I was thinking of buying a 325 block and then the crankshaft and piston and rods from scrap yard fro e46 330ci.
    then get the piston ring and crankshaft bearings changes so they are new

    before i do so, do u know if there is a way to absolutely find out if 330ci pistons will fit or just go with the manufacturing specs and take the risk ?
    I can't say absolutely sure, because I haven't done it myself. I intend to do it sometime during summer. But I highly doubt the OEM specs are off, TBH. I'm pretty confident most of the stroking will be smooth sailing.

    p.s. very well done with the new piston rings and bearings.

    Regarding the 325 block, make sure you get one in very good condition, without bore wear. The M54B30 pistons are indeed 84mm, but there is a decimal after that. Can't remember exact figures, but IIRC, they are slightly smaller in diameter than M50B25.

    For ex, say the 2.5 are 84.12mm and 3.0 are 84.03 (numbers made up, I don't remember the exact diameters). The difference in diameter, added to the bore wear in the 2.5 block could lead to lower compression.

    If you can't find a good 2.5 block, you can buy a 2.0 one, and bore that out to the size of the 3.0 pistons.
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

  6.  
    #35
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    I'm just getting into this currently.
    Things to look out for:
    I'd read a few times that you could use the m50b25tu pistons with the rest of the b30 assembly. You can't.
    Piston rings are $96US each set. The rings are very thin and are thicker then the usual m5x. If anyone knows of a link to get the cheaper please share. For nearly 600 bucks forged pistons that come with rings look very appealing. At this point I will be re-using piston rings that were on the m54b30 pistons
    The whole b30 assembly does fit. I was a bit worried on my first attempt as the timing wheel on the crank was hanging up. Just needs to be rotated to the missing teeth and it will sit straight in. I don't want to have to rebalance the rotating assembly so the timing wheel will stay. I still need to check what the compression ratio will be.
    The crank scraper looks like it will need some adjustment. It's steel though so shouldn't be hard at all to modify
    You've got to hope and pray that the bores are good. If not it's trash for this project(unless your going to forged pistons). I was considering getting a b20 block and boring it out if things weren't ok as said above. Thankfully from my first set of measurements it seems i'm ok. Cranks and pistons even had the same important dimensions. Will be getting new bearings for peace of mind.
    If your not doing the work yourself i'd say this would cost you about as much sticking a turbo on it.
    If your thinking of using an alloy block you might want to just use an m54b30+standalone ecu

    mistreku i'll post up a link to pics when I get ahold of my camera
     
     

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    mistreku (01-10-2011)

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    #36
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    Thanks mate, any input is most welcome. Do you have a project thread, by any chance? Would love to follow it!
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

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    #37
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    http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/...6&st=0&start=0
    Not sure if you need to be signed in to view.
    I'll try be as in depth as i can about the rebuild.
    It was hard enough to find info about it in the first place.
     
     

  10. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to kiwi328 For This Useful Post:

    mistreku (02-10-2011),MONSTER (02-10-2011)

  11.  
    #38
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    Thanks mate, I'm sure it will be appreciated! I'll keep a close eye on it, as it might give me a good idea about what's expecting me in the summer.

    Edit: Just read your thread mate. Impressive! Subscribed.
    Last edited by mistreku; 02-10-2011 at 02:36.
    There are only two products required to make the universe work properly: Duct tape and WD40. 


    If it moves (and it shouldn't): duct tape. 
If it doesn’t move (and it should): WD40.

    Everything else is just stuff.
     
     

  12.  
    #39
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    E36_turbo's Car Details
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi328 View Post
    I'm just getting into this currently.
    Things to look out for:
    I'd read a few times that you could use the m50b25tu pistons with the rest of the b30 assembly. You can't.
    Piston rings are $96US each set. The rings are very thin and are thicker then the usual m5x. If anyone knows of a link to get the cheaper please share. For nearly 600 bucks forged pistons that come with rings look very appealing. At this point I will be re-using piston rings that were on the m54b30 pistons
    The whole b30 assembly does fit. I was a bit worried on my first attempt as the timing wheel on the crank was hanging up. Just needs to be rotated to the missing teeth and it will sit straight in. I don't want to have to rebalance the rotating assembly so the timing wheel will stay. I still need to check what the compression ratio will be.
    The crank scraper looks like it will need some adjustment. It's steel though so shouldn't be hard at all to modify
    You've got to hope and pray that the bores are good. If not it's trash for this project(unless your going to forged pistons). I was considering getting a b20 block and boring it out if things weren't ok as said above. Thankfully from my first set of measurements it seems i'm ok. Cranks and pistons even had the same important dimensions. Will be getting new bearings for peace of mind.
    If your not doing the work yourself i'd say this would cost you about as much sticking a turbo on it.
    If your thinking of using an alloy block you might want to just use an m54b30+standalone ecu

    mistreku i'll post up a link to pics when I get ahold of my camera
    thanks for the info. did u end up with using ur alloy block then ?
     
     

  13.  
    #40
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    No for this I am using an iron block.
    Only reason for that is i'd like to eventually boost it as well

    Thank you for the kind words
     
     

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