1997 e36 328i m50 manifold - Page 2

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  1.  
    #11
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    Acerockard's Car Details
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    Sounds similar to a problem I had last year, used to collect points at morrisons so always filled up there
    on a long run had to fill up elsewhere bp I think, few days later I noticed it seemed alot smoother on accelerating
    I thought it was maybe the long run had done it good, the next week problem came back, had to do the same long journey
    Again, but this time made sure I had filled up, got to collect my points I thought, few days on car was still noticabley sounding/driving rough
    up to 3-4 tho rpm then seemed to behave itself beyond there just as it always did, apart from the one time I filled up somewhere else, so I tried
    my theory out filled up at the local total garage, bought the higher octane stuff for a treat, instantly car started running better, so next time I filled up
    same place but got normal fuel, ran fine. I thought it was just a myth but changing petrol when I did saved me fortune as was going to start my problem
    solving list the same as you have, I hope u manage to find the problem soon without too much more expense! Good luck.
     
     

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  3. tb 
    #12
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    djsteviec01's Car Details
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    e36 328i sport
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    Thanks mate but the car is always run on 99vpower. I'm leaning towards something to do with throttle body. Everyrime I slightly adjust the asc cable or throttle cable the car behaves for a short time.
     
     

  4.  
    #13
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    djsteviec01's Car Details
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    I tried a different grade of fuel on the way home im always on vpower but tried 95. Car is exactly the same on either fuels. The only thing that changes how the car acts is by adjusting both cables on the tb im not sure what this is doing except increasing idle speed and im not sure how the asc cable operates. I have seen a few people online completely remove the asc part of the throttle body but my intake boot wont fit if i done this. I dont know whether or not it makes a difference but i believe that i may have a non asc tb . Im not sure what difference this could make if any??
     
     

  5.  
    #14
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    djsteviec01's Car Details
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    poor video best i could do at night one handed. Anyhow shows foot flat in 4th gear :( Il get a better video 2m in daylight
     
     

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    #15
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    Today i have pulled all the plugs to check their is no oil getting in the coilpacks which there was not. However all my plugs are bone dry they where replaced 500 miles ago i have added a couple of pictures sorry for poor photo quality. IMG01849-20120905-1518.jpgIMG01850-20120905-1518.jpg
     
     

  7.  
    #16
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    Another update i dont know whther this is relevant. I pulled all the injectors fitted new o rings top and bottom then went for a drive. Pulled over as the car was just as bad and noticed i left the vanos solenoid plug out of the harness. I plugged it back in but it makes no difference to how the car runs??? Does this indicate a duff solenoid?
     
     

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    #17
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    does the car run ok for 5 to 10 mins when from cold or if you stoped and then started the car would it run good then for 5 to 10 mins again when warm ?
     
     

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    #18
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    Yeh its a bit like that. Had it down the garage the other day the only code it threw was crankshaft sensor so im going to change that next week im not sure whether that will make any difference. It did not have that code last time i had it checked and it was running the same.
    Last edited by djsteviec01; 10-09-2012 at 00:36. Reason: spelling
     
     

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    #19
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    its a fuel prob bet its down to th ecu. i find after i disconnet the bat for 15mins and then hook it back up the car feels slow till it learns again and that take a good 70miles i find maybe less sounds like the the ecu is makinmg ajustments like you start the car its runs ok then the ecu works out and things have changed and make ajustments to the fueling you need to get the car on a dyno and see what happends to the fueling when the power goes if its down to fueling you will see in on the screen thats going to be a good way to find out what going on but like i said bets its ecu and fueling not a sensor
     
     

  11.  
    #20
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    Thanks everyone for all your responses I have not managed to get anywhere with the car and the crankshaft sensor has since been replaced. I have replaced every single sensor now i think, amongst other things and my wallets pretty empty Im certain the manifold is not leaking anywhere i just dont know where to look next. Its been to a couple of garages which plug it in to read the codes then shrug their shoulders. It is a nikasil lump but when compression tested it showed good results. Its been on the dyno and made 231 bhp but only 180nm of torque of which was quite scatty the fuelling was incredibly bad on the dyno but i think this is due to the manifold leaking at the time. Im now debating whether to give up and find a donor car to take the engine from? If anyone has any idea what could be going on or is local enough to take a look for me that would be great
     
     

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