1997 e36 328i m50 manifold

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  1. 1997 e36 328i m50 manifold 
    #1
    BMW Master
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    djsteviec01's Car Details
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    I have done a lot of work recently on my 328i and replaced all sensors for genuine parts checked for vac leaks over and over and still am getting problems. The car pulls really well on its first run after 5-10 mins i lose all my low down torque. I have a properly converted m50 manifold from alpina527 and have noticed there is two possible places to plug the iat sensor plug in. Does anyone know whether i plug in to the one in the middle of the mani or on the far end or of anything else that could give me my problems. Thanks
     
     

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    Either should be OK, but the middle was the original position for an M52.
    Any way of reading codes incase there is some sort of vanos jamming?
     
     

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    #3
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    Yeh thats where its plugged in. I had the codes read today after erasing the old stored codes yesterday. It came back no faults. I have had a compression test and all cylinders where within a few psi. I have replaced the ccv,icv coil packs, cam sensor, crank sensor, tps, the boot from the tb to maf, new maf, new catalytic converter, valve cover gasket, coolant temp sensor, manifold gaskets all within the last two months using all genuine parts. Its cost me a fortune and somethings still not right :(
     
     

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    Fine a good Indy who knows how to read the live reading

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    Live reading has be done. I think the exhaust may have a minor leak but this seems like a big power loss from a leaking exhaust ?
     
     

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    #6
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    You should be using the original M52 temp sensor in it's original location. The old sensor that's left in the end of the M50 manifold has incorrect values.

    Which diagnostics machine was used? Someone like B&W chiptune or Enda use diagnostics systems that will pick up on errors that Snap On etc will miss.
     
     

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    #7
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    Carsoft could not find any faults neither could my peake. My uncle has a snap on diagnostics tool which also found no faults so pretty certain no codes are being stored. Ive changed so many parts i dont know where to look next. Il get the exhaust looked at and see if anything changes
     
     

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    Yea, get the exhaust sorted, I would have expected it to give a lambda sensor error, but even so, it matches that the car runs OK in open loop when warming up, and then when the lambda is hot enough to work, you lose power as the air/fuel appears to be wrong.

    You can get some exhaust repair paste and bandages to block any leaks and see what that does.
     
     

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    #9
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    Evening Just an update i have not had a chance to look at the exhaust yet but i have adjusted up my throttle cable. All i can say is its made a world of difference. Thanks all your help
     
     

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    #10
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    Back again...... The day after i adjusted the throttle cable and it seemed to have cured my problem it came back worse. I can not find any leaks on the manifold what so ever. The car is now idling a treat although it sounds like its missfiring from the back box. I cant find any leaks on the exhaust system. Still no codes its been scanned again. The valve cover has decided to start leaking again in the far corner which is very minor at the minute. Basically if i accelerate its as flat as anything and makes a real deep noise before eventually starting to pull. Il try get a video later. Its driving me crazy :(
     
     

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