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1997 e36 328i m50 manifold

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m50 manifold
5K views 29 replies 8 participants last post by  djsteviec01 
#1 ·
I have done a lot of work recently on my 328i and replaced all sensors for genuine parts checked for vac leaks over and over and still am getting problems. The car pulls really well on its first run after 5-10 mins i lose all my low down torque. I have a properly converted m50 manifold from alpina527 and have noticed there is two possible places to plug the iat sensor plug in. Does anyone know whether i plug in to the one in the middle of the mani or on the far end or of anything else that could give me my problems. Thanks:thumbsup
 
#3 ·
Yeh thats where its plugged in. I had the codes read today after erasing the old stored codes yesterday. It came back no faults. I have had a compression test and all cylinders where within a few psi. I have replaced the ccv,icv coil packs, cam sensor, crank sensor, tps, the boot from the tb to maf, new maf, new catalytic converter, valve cover gasket, coolant temp sensor, manifold gaskets all within the last two months using all genuine parts. Its cost me a fortune and somethings still not right :(
 
#6 ·
You should be using the original M52 temp sensor in it's original location. The old sensor that's left in the end of the M50 manifold has incorrect values.

Which diagnostics machine was used? Someone like B&W chiptune or Enda use diagnostics systems that will pick up on errors that Snap On etc will miss.
 
#7 ·
Carsoft could not find any faults neither could my peake. My uncle has a snap on diagnostics tool which also found no faults so pretty certain no codes are being stored. Ive changed so many parts i dont know where to look next. Il get the exhaust looked at and see if anything changes
 
#8 ·
Yea, get the exhaust sorted, I would have expected it to give a lambda sensor error, but even so, it matches that the car runs OK in open loop when warming up, and then when the lambda is hot enough to work, you lose power as the air/fuel appears to be wrong.

You can get some exhaust repair paste and bandages to block any leaks and see what that does.
 
#10 ·
Back again...... The day after i adjusted the throttle cable and it seemed to have cured my problem it came back worse. I can not find any leaks on the manifold what so ever. The car is now idling a treat although it sounds like its missfiring from the back box. I cant find any leaks on the exhaust system. Still no codes its been scanned again. The valve cover has decided to start leaking again in the far corner which is very minor at the minute. Basically if i accelerate its as flat as anything and makes a real deep noise before eventually starting to pull. Il try get a video later. Its driving me crazy :(
 
#11 ·
Sounds similar to a problem I had last year, used to collect points at morrisons so always filled up there
on a long run had to fill up elsewhere bp I think, few days later I noticed it seemed alot smoother on accelerating
I thought it was maybe the long run had done it good, the next week problem came back, had to do the same long journey
Again, but this time made sure I had filled up, got to collect my points I thought, few days on car was still noticabley sounding/driving rough
up to 3-4 tho rpm then seemed to behave itself beyond there just as it always did, apart from the one time I filled up somewhere else, so I tried
my theory out filled up at the local total garage, bought the higher octane stuff for a treat, instantly car started running better, so next time I filled up
same place but got normal fuel, ran fine. I thought it was just a myth but changing petrol when I did saved me fortune as was going to start my problem
solving list the same as you have, I hope u manage to find the problem soon without too much more expense! Good luck.
 
#13 ·
I tried a different grade of fuel on the way home im always on vpower but tried 95. Car is exactly the same on either fuels. The only thing that changes how the car acts is by adjusting both cables on the tb im not sure what this is doing except increasing idle speed and im not sure how the asc cable operates. I have seen a few people online completely remove the asc part of the throttle body but my intake boot wont fit if i done this. I dont know whether or not it makes a difference but i believe that i may have a non asc tb . Im not sure what difference this could make if any??
 
#16 ·
Another update i dont know whther this is relevant. I pulled all the injectors fitted new o rings top and bottom then went for a drive. Pulled over as the car was just as bad and noticed i left the vanos solenoid plug out of the harness. I plugged it back in but it makes no difference to how the car runs??? Does this indicate a duff solenoid?
 
#19 ·
its a fuel prob bet its down to th ecu. i find after i disconnet the bat for 15mins and then hook it back up the car feels slow till it learns again and that take a good 70miles i find maybe less sounds like the the ecu is makinmg ajustments like you start the car its runs ok then the ecu works out and things have changed and make ajustments to the fueling you need to get the car on a dyno and see what happends to the fueling when the power goes if its down to fueling you will see in on the screen thats going to be a good way to find out what going on but like i said bets its ecu and fueling not a sensor
 
#20 ·
Thanks everyone for all your responses :) I have not managed to get anywhere with the car and the crankshaft sensor has since been replaced. I have replaced every single sensor now i think, amongst other things and my wallets pretty empty ;) Im certain the manifold is not leaking anywhere i just dont know where to look next. Its been to a couple of garages which plug it in to read the codes then shrug their shoulders. It is a nikasil lump but when compression tested it showed good results. Its been on the dyno and made 231 bhp but only 180nm of torque of which was quite scatty the fuelling was incredibly bad on the dyno but i think this is due to the manifold leaking at the time. Im now debating whether to give up and find a donor car to take the engine from? If anyone has any idea what could be going on or is local enough to take a look for me that would be great :)
 
#23 ·
Any result on this?

When I had these symptoms with my 323i I was scratching my head for ages and like you changed alot of parts. Eventually found it was a blocked cat, the gas flow from the tail pipe seemed a little low but nothing terrible. As soon as I changed the exhaust system though the car came back to life! I just wished I had changed the cats earlier.
 
#26 ·
Had codes read - No stored codes
Live data
Idle speed air adaption -7.613
lambda probe heating 1 0.526
lambda probe heating 2 0.526
lambda 1 67.8
lambda 2 67.8
air flow sensor signal 1v
camshaft postion fluctuating between -3 to -5
power supply 13.8v
air flow 18 kgh
throttle valve potentiometer 0.624 IDLE
injection angle 12-13 kw
coolant temp sensor 26c
IAT -38 Found broken wire reconnected got 22c
engine speed 801rpm
Vanos LATE - This one concerns me

How does this sound ??
 
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