1996 E36 M3 3.0l tuning best way to go

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  1. 1996 E36 M3 3.0l tuning best way to go 
    #1
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    hi im new to the site so hello all, i am thinking of getting an m3 e36 but don't want an evo i have heard that the vanos can be a problem so am thinking the 3.0L would be, but as i don't know my way round m3 e36's thought it's best to find out, is the m3 3.0L easy to tune and what would be the best way not just the engine suspension, brakes, i am thinking of driving to spa next year and maybe drive round,
     
     

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    Depends what your budget is mate?

    Chassis wise, a set of better brakes (AP, Brembo etc) is an expensive 'nice-to-have'. Newer suspension (and more modern) is always wise too - get all your bushings/bearings checked/replaced.

    The Evo can have Vanos issues (it has dual vanos, the 3.0 has single), but it gets a six-speed box plus a few other updates. If you're going for a full-on race setup, you can have it done away with altogether...

    Overall, the M3's already have all the go faster bits - a proper induction kit and a chip/remap is as far as I'd go on an M3 engine.
     
     

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    thanks for that helps a lot anything to look out for other then the vanos on evo's i have seen you can get repair kits for them are they any good i don't mind getting my hand dirty i have had cosworths in the past,
     
     

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    A well serviced Evo makes about 35-40 bhp more than the 3.0l, so a good, well serviced one is well worth it.

    Even if you have to replace / repair the whole vanos system - just think how much cash it would cost to increase the bhp of the 3.0 litre by 40 bhp...

    Don't be put off though, I much prefer the 3.0l from an owners perspective.
     
     

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    why do you prefer the 3.0L if you don't mind me asking my mate has an evo and it's nice but it's just then vanos, and am i right that the gear box is sealed so you have to buy a new one if anything goes wrong,
     
     

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    Not sure about the gearbox, but I'd assume you could get any gearbox worked on within reason?

    The 3.0 litre is just easier to live with, brakes, clutch etc will cost loads more for an Evo. The Evo is also insurance group 20, verses group 18. The list goes on...

    If you've got loads of spare cash, and the car won't be your daily driver - defo get the Evo. But if you want to put a lot of hard-miles on your car, within a sensible budget, get the 3.0.
     
     

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    well am going to need to get to work so i want to use it think i will be going for an 3.0L don't know why but i am going towards the 3.0L thanks for all your advice :-)
     
     

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    #8
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    i have the 3.0 and i love it!!

    i can drive it very hard at times, maybe to much but it loves it!!!

    a close mat ehas an evo! and i can honestly say the differnce in speed is minimal for 40bhp!!
    the gears are closer ratio thats wat id put it dwn to, and iirc 0-60 difference is like .4 of a second!

    the evo is the later and better ca rof course, but brakes etc 3.0 , map! induction (dave f) sports cat or cat back system. 300bhp! job done and a roar you cant possibly beat
     
     

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