1994 E36 M3 Where to start?

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  1. 1994 E36 M3 Where to start? 
    #1
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    mforget's Car Details
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    Hi, i am a new member from canada and i just bought an 1994 M3 imported from Germany.

    Now i am wondering, after general maintenance, brakes and suspension are done, where should i start to get some more Hps from the S50B30 engine?? I dont want to get crazy, just get some more power with bolt ons and maybe a chip if it really worth it.

    Theres a lot of stuff here for the US engine but not much for the S50B30 so i would like to have the advice of some people over here.....

    Thanks a lot!
     
     

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    TheEnd's Car Details
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    A chip will get you some more HP, although you could go a step further and go Alpha N.
    I'm not a huge fan of Alpha N as it is based on guessing the airflow rather than measuring it, so only decent for high speed power. Low speed running can be a little off as well as general driving.

    Getting valve clearances checked is a good way to restore any lost power. S50B32 inlet trumpets are fairly popular, as well as shrick cams, or swapping to the 3.2 head (I forget if the valves are bigger, but the stems are 1mm thinner so more room for air)

    A more safety related mod was to fit the M3 3.2 dual pick up oil pump and sump.

    The 3.0 could suffer from big end bearing failure on high speed corners (which is why BMW swapped to a dual pick up pump)
    The 3.2 would get bearing failures from the slightly higher RPMs, so if you want the rev limit increased, ARP con rod bolts are a wise idea, but not as important as on the 3.2.


    Generally the S50s are very strong, knocking from bearings is the usual cause of death of any of them.

    Vanos can get noisy, but in a lot of cases, it is just noise, and carrying on and living with it is OK. If the vanos completely stops, it is often a solenoid wire that needs resoldering.
    Slow vanos can be caused by wearing / ageing solenoid O rings.

    There is a set of 5 or so bolts on the vanos unit that can fracture, so a good idea to change (one by one, as there is a lot of oil pressure behind).

    Thermostats sometimes jam open, and they can be a bit awkward to replace but not too big a job.

    The oil cooler under the rad is also in the line of fire from stonechips but there isn't much you can do about that.
     
     

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    Thanks a lot for those infos! I can do some mechanic but Im new to the M3 family so thats really appreciated!
     
     

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    Most if not all has been covered the The End above.

    Although i have heard that decat works well on the 3.0L (not so well on the 3.2). Exhaust wise there's not much out there that will give additional power (a few aftermarket ones can even lose you power) over the stock system as it is very well designed, only bad thing is it weighs a tonne. Supersprint are one of the few that give you a little gain and sound very nice as they aren't too loud. Supersprint, Hamann (made by supersprint), Eisenmann, Milltek are a few that I know work well with the M3's. Although if you get a good exhaust and decat you will lose a shed load of weight and gain a few HP so overall you will make the car quicker.

    You could also go for a good intake setup, just be sure to use a good heatshield and cone (K&N are a safe bet). There is a forum member that sells heatshields so may be worth contacting him to see if he'll post to Canada. Be sure not to just stick a cone on as you will draw in hot air and lose power.

    You can get a light weight flywheel and lose the viscous fan and replace with electric fan. If you have A/C you can use the fan from that, just replace the thermostat with a lower temp one so the fan kicks in a little earlier. This will make the engine rev up quicker. Although a Lighweight FW will give you a bit of gearbox chatter at idle.

    One of the best mods you can do for acceleration is a shorter ratio diff. the difference is unreal and as you have a 3.0L you have the small cas diff so the crown wheel and pinion from another BMW won't be as expensive as they are for the Evo. To maintain good top end cruising I would go for a ratio in the 3.62 range. I'm sure there's a calculator online that will let you work out what speed the ratio's top out at. You don't want it to be too short because you will be revving very high at cruising speeds and it will lower you top speed in general.

    Only other thing is losing weight, this will definately make the car quicker. e.g bucket or recliner seats. Stock seats weigh just over 30KG each!!! where as a good bucket seat can weigh as little as 5-6KG


    Oh sorry only other thing is forced induction but that biiiig money.

    HTH

    Kash
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by powerofm View Post
    You could also go for a good intake setup, just be sure to use a good heatshield and cone (K&N are a safe bet). There is a forum member that sells heatshields so may be worth contacting him to see if he'll post to Canada. Be sure not to just stick a cone on as you will draw in hot air and lose power.
    Is there really any gain to get from a cone filter and heatshield on the S50B30??

    I could get that kit from AFE that should fit the car.....I just dont need the adapter provided.

    http://afepower.com/shop/details_new...0L&&brandID=53
     
     

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    #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheEnd View Post
    Getting valve clearances checked is a good way to restore any lost power. S50B32 inlet trumpets are fairly popular, as well as shrick cams, or swapping to the 3.2 head (I forget if the valves are bigger, but the stems are 1mm thinner so more room for air)
    How the S50B32 inlet trumpets are different from the S50B30 ones? What are the benefits?

    Also, what parts are needed for the S50B32 head swap?
     
     

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