2003 E46 330ci - Suspension components refresh options - Page 5

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  1.  
    #41
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    Any help/pointers on installing my new coilovers guys? Things to avoid, or change whilst I'm in there?

    Trying to find out whether I need to install my new Meyle Top mounts on the fronts, or if the'yre somehow built into the coilover kit? Thinking I need them, just have to take off the adjustable camber plates first I guess?

    Then it's finding out about the preload on the front and rears, instructions are a bit vague so Google time me thinks

    IMG_0755.jpgIMG_0756.jpgIMG_0757.jpg

    Thanks again

    Rog
     
     

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    #42
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    Nope to have to install as it is (the strut with camber plate), so no need for topmount.
     
     

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    #43
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    Cheers for this.

    It looks like my small stockpile of suspension parts is slowly becoming more and more redundant. I initially bought the lower rear trailing arm bushes, which I've now discovered are better upgraded to also use the upper ball joint. My Meyle HD rear top mounts, aren't needed as the new coilovers have them included, same as the fronts it now seems. I've decided to chicken out on attempting to try and do the whole preload stuff for the rear trailing arm bushes, and ordered myself a set of strongflex polys, in their softest grade. Also ordered a set of the front and rear top mount reinforcing plates. Wondering what I'll come up with next either needing or not needing

    Thanks again

    Rog
     
     

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    #44
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    You are going right way! to enjoy your E46 for a long time.
    Maybe you should consider to replace rear carrier bushes...
     
     

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    #45
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    Hoping my E46 lasts me years

    When you say "rear carrier bushes" are you referring to the rear subframe, diff, etc? If so, these are on my to do list, by all accounts its not going to be a particularly easy job, mainly due to corrosion, rusty bolts, etc. I'll probably look to cheating and replace with poly bushes as getting bushes out is generally a lot easier than fitting new ones, as you can drill, hack, burn the old ones out, but special pressing tools are usually required to get the new oem style bushes back in correctly, where as polys are generally a lot easier to install...

    Still got to remove the lower rear trailing arm bushes, then I'll do the rear trailing arm bushes, and then it's the inner bushes, which I think require the diff lowering to access :/

    Also seen a good video on replacing the front engine mounts and gear box mounts, any other bushes you're aware of that could be replaced?

    Thanks again

    Rog
     
     

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    #46
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    Yup diff bushes etc. yup OEM BUSHES are stubborn to get out.
    I finally ending drilling them old, old skool way.

    Yes poly bushes are way easier, I am still considering between oem ad poly..
    Will you replace bushes at most front of rear suspension arms?
    I mean the big ones that bolted to car chassis.

     
     

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    #47
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    Yes I'm replacing the bushes in your picture above. I believe they're called RTABs (Rear Trailing Arm Bush). If you use oem style bushes you need to do some sort of preload setup, which sounds a bit tricky to do, but if you go with poly bushes here they just press in, no preload positioning to worry about.

    Having fun this evening trying to remove my rear anti-roll bar (swaybar) looks like I need to drop my exhaust down a bit at the rear to allow me room to remove the anti-roll bar. I'm using Meyle oem style rear drop links, with poly bushes for the inner bushes on the anti-roll bar.

    I've gone for cheap poly bushes for the inner anti-roll bar and as a result they're not split, so I think the idea is to slide them all the way along the length of the anti-roll bar, where as other makes have a split in the flat part, which allows you to just spread them out and put them in the required position. Depending on how much effort it takes to push these bushes along the bar, I might investigate what harm can come of me cutting them in half to allow me to put them on more easily.

    Thanks

    Rog
     
     

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    #48
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    What do we know about and/or think of adjustable lower control arms? Sounds like another item I may well have to add to my shopping list? Pic below is just generic to give everyone a better understanding of what I'm referring to. OEM replacements are about £25 each (Meyle) and aren't really adjustable, other than the eccentric nut/bolt, where as adjustable ones start around £60 for a pair, and allow for the actual length of the arm to be changed...

    adjustable lower control arm.jpg

    Thanks again

    Rog
     
     

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    #49
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    What do you mean by preload setup?
    Thanks.
     
     

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    #50
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    Evening,

    RTAB Pre-load, from what I've read, is incorrectly aligning the new OEM style bush, and causing premature failure of the bush, due to it being put under unnecessary stress even when in it's default position.

    There's a special tool to ensure it's correctly aligned before lowering the car back to the ground. Generally people get a piece of wood or metal with a straight edge and line it up with the RTAB bracket, and the centre of the hub/wheel bearing. There's talk of it needing to be 8mm above or below the centre of the hub, not sure which, but googling will get you the answer.

    Here's a picture of either the tool, or someones DIY version, but gives you a good idea of how you preload, or more importantly avoid preloading the bush, this will ensure its under no stress.

    Poly bush RTABs don't require special alignment to avoid preload, so are a better choice for this reason, plus much easier to install, but can squeak if not generously greased by all accounts.

    rtab alignment.jpg

    Thanks

    Rog
     
     

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