Haven't been using my 318is coupe for some time but have been starting it to let it warm up & quick drive up and down the road.
However, I haven't done it for a month and tried it last night - this is what happened;
1. Ignition on and dashboard lights light up
2. Turn the ignition key.
3. Engine turns over, needles on rev counter jump around a bit then starter cuts out after about 5 seconds.
4. Try again and same as point 4.
Before I attack it with my toolkit - what would your advice be to check - and in which order :cool
Bearing in mind it started within 2 seconds a month ago and on all previous start-ups :thumbsup
I don't have a working code reader - I have an interface I'm currently trying to setup on my laptop, but no luck yet - USB to serial port mappings mad:mad
Also, is the starter supposed to cut out after 5 seconds? (overheat protection?)
Right, I read a couple of posts that if the CHECK ENGINE light doesn't illuminate then go out when you turn the ignition to position 2 - this is a sign your DME is shagged....
I would still think its your starter motor, I had the exact same problem with my 318is, sometimes the connection on them fucks up, or sometimes they just randomly **** up altogether, they are really really common on the e36 I must have changed mine about 4 times. Try this, see if you can push the car, or roll it down a hill to get some speed, and try bump start it, unbeliveably enough even when you think your car wont start it does, get some real speed first though, once its moving fast put clutch down put it in first gear and slowly lift the cluth as you push down on the accel, if it starts and runs its your starter, and dont worry too much, you can get another for like 20 quid lol, if you need one let me know, i can send you one, i got a 318is am breaking atm
Hmm, seems to me you haven't read the thread as you would have spotted the bits which say "engine cranks fine for as long as I hold the key" - "the fuel pump doesn't run" - "there is no spark" - how exactly would replacing the starter (with the one you're offering for sale) start the fuel pump running and send a spark to the plugs :shifty:
Euro cars don't have the check engine light, only North American models.
Simple way to test the OBC issue is to disconnect it.
That said, I doubt if that is the issue here.
The Cam sensor was flagged twice but you haven't replaced it yet. This tells the DME at what point to fire the plugs so that is a likely suspect. You could also check the Unloader relay...
The Cam sensor was flagged twice but you haven't replaced it yet. This tells the DME at what point to fire the plugs so that is a likely suspect. You could also check the Unloader relay...]
This is true.. but since the fuel pump isn't even priming or running when cranking then by logical elimination I decided to side track the cam sensor for now.
I'll be looking at the car again tonight and will add it to things to check :cool
1. I have taken the dashboard apart and behind the steering column I found the circular EWS ring antenna with a key taped inside it. So the EWS has been bypassed by having the coded key in it permenantly.
2. In search of the unloader relay I took out the glove box but saw nothing. There were lots of wires dissapearing down under the carpet so I decided to remove the passenger seat and lift the carpet. Guess what I found............a shallow swimming pool in the passenger footwell. I found the EWS module (big yellow plug) dangling just above the water, when I removed the plug it was dry.
Next actions;
1. I tested the EWS by removing the key from the ring and tried my ignition key - the lights lit up but the starter didn't crank. I replaced the key into the ring and the starter cranked - so, does this mean EWS is working fine? If the EWS module had water inside it - surely it wouldn't allow the engine to crank?
I will open it up to inspect it and leave it on the radiator overnight.
2. I have moped up the water and inspected the cable splices in the footwell - no signs of corrosion, the connectors are still a nice shiny colour. I will let the cables dry out a bitand test the splices for continuity.
Ok, since the car hasn't been used does this rule out a water leak from the heater?
Ok, Lets take stock. There are three elements to getting it running
(1) Turning over - it does that so we know EWS and the starter circuit are OK despite the hotwire.
(2) Fuel pump - This doesn't prime unless you supply 12v to pin 30 of the fuel pump relay. It gets the feed from the DME relay
(3) Spark - There doesn't seem to be a spark at cyl 1 when cranking. The unloader relay (at the bulkhead near the DME) controls this and is activated by the ignition switch.
When you jumped the fuel pump relay and it primed did you try and start the car?
Opened up the EWS module and its a resin coated pcb and there were no signs of water ingress
Have pulled out the DME and on the DME plug;
Tested pins 20 & 78 resistance is 545ohms - crank sensor - i this ok???
Pin 26 gives constant +12v
Pin 56 gives ignition switched +12v - although when ign off this also shows continuity to ground :confused
Pins 28/34/55 give continuity to ground - the DME case also has a good continuity to ground when in position in its compartment. Engine also has good continuity to ground at various locations.
DME relay inside cover seems to work fine.
Main & Fuel relays seem ok.
I even opened up the DME to absolutely rule out water damage - the insides are absolutely fine, no corrosion, all labels fine - no ink runs or damage to the paper.
The passenger footwell is mostly dry now, the splice blocks are not corroded and each connector gives continuity between itself and all the others.
OK, I'm at an absolute dead end on this one.
I've studied the wiring diagrams until my eyes got dizzy.
Without access to the 'code' in the DME - does anyone know what is required (what conditions need to be satisfied) to trigger the fuel pump to prime when you turn on the ignition???
So a replacement would need to be coded - presumably this doesn't have to be done by BMW but someone with the correct equipment could do it? Anyone got any contacts in this regard?
Other than that, you could get any 667 and then get the EWS synced (that's what the coding bit is all about)
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