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1997 E36 318is Coupe - won't start after standing - advice please :(

12K views 52 replies 13 participants last post by  Markie76 
#1 ·
Hi Guys,

Haven't been using my 318is coupe for some time but have been starting it to let it warm up & quick drive up and down the road.

However, I haven't done it for a month and tried it last night - this is what happened;

1. Ignition on and dashboard lights light up
2. Turn the ignition key.
3. Engine turns over, needles on rev counter jump around a bit then starter cuts out after about 5 seconds.
4. Try again and same as point 4.

Before I attack it with my toolkit - what would your advice be to check - and in which order :cool

Bearing in mind it started within 2 seconds a month ago and on all previous start-ups :thumbsup

I don't have a working code reader - I have an interface I'm currently trying to setup on my laptop, but no luck yet - USB to serial port mappings :mad:mad:mad

Also, is the starter supposed to cut out after 5 seconds? (overheat protection?)

Thanks,

Mark.
 
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#5 ·
This was going to be my first check. I didn't listen for the fuel pump, when I'm with the car tomorrow, I'll lift the rear seat up and have a listen before trying it.
Is there a quick & easy way to check for fuel delivery engine side?

Having you got an immobliser on your car because that maybe the reason for it cutting out. Or check for any split pipes, I maybe wrong, hope this helps buddy. :thumbsup
Yes, its got a scorpion cat 1 alarm/immob - but when its on the starter won't turn. I guess if its dual circuit its possible the 2nd circuit is open - I hope not as not in the mood to be diagnosing alarm electrics :timebomb


Classic symptoms of a flat battery mate :hihi

The starter ticks and then dies? You need a new battery as charging the one you've got won't be reliable anymore :thumbsup

Easy way to check if it is a flat battery is to turn headlights on, crank the car over and if the headlights dim or go out your battery is goosed.
No, the starter cranks the engine for 5 seconds then stops. If I hold the key in the start position, it cranks the engine for 5 seconds, stops for about 3-4 seconds then again cranks the engine for 5 seconds, etc.... is this a starter overheat protection (it being an ultimate driving machine :D) or do I have a unique feature?
 
#7 ·
ok, this is now spooky...

I got back to the car this evening, unlocked it, removed rear seat in order to listen out for fuel pump priming type noises.

Stuck in the key, pricked up my ears, turned the key to ignition on - didn't hear anything... :frown

Then turned the key to start AND within 2 seconds it STARTED, sounded a bit rough for 10 seconds but responded to throttle etc....

SO, blockage or gremlin :sarcastic


PS Do these models 'fuel prime' when drivers door handle switch is activated?
 
#9 ·
Don't think so - I open up, remove some things off the rear seat, pulled the bench up in one go.
Had a look to see the whole base is lined with that black matt material (sound proofing?) with the airbag module on the leading edge and some cable loom...
I was expecting to see a round access panel with a wire/tubing - like I've seen in other cars - but didn't :frown

I'm going to try it later tonight and take it for a spin - fingers crossed... :)
 
#10 ·
MY GREMLIN IS BACK!!!!! :mad:mad:mad

Right, got in the car, turned the ignition, engine turned over - but nothing.
Tried again - nothing.

Also did notice the rear brake lights weren't lighting up - is this related or random coincidence?

Was driving the car on Wednesday night - started within 2 seconds then......:frown


Thanks,

Mark.
 
#19 ·
i had a simular problem to this at the weekend was the rev counter bouncing up and down when the car is turning over? and was the fuel needle moving to?? if it is i would go round and clean/tighten the earth wires around the engine bay and also check the little 10mm bolt the is on the positive battey connection this seamed to have sorted it for me hope this helps mate let me know how you get on
 
#21 ·
ok, StK kindly lent me his fault code reader and it said;

Fc
07 Code Table
6C Battery Disconnected
7C Intake air temperature sensor
70 Camshaft Position sensor

(as per this thread)

Is camshaft sensor something to remove & clean? Or if has to be replaced where/which brand is best quality/value for money?

intake air temp sensor - would a broken/faulty sensor prevent it starting or just result in rough running?

thx
 
#22 ·
7O - easy enough to change. On the e46 its around £86 so i'd say about the same for the e36. If you have a exhaust cam sensor its worth swapping with the inlet one to see if the fault code moves :thumbsup They can't be cleaned.

7c - intake air temp, could clean it but for the price just worth changing, but just to be sure its best off to clear the fault codes and see if any of them reappear.

HTH
 
#26 ·
UPDATE.

Last night in the gale force winds I battle out to the car.
My approach is, swap battery, clear error codes, try starting, re-check codes, go parts shopping.

SO, the central locking barely opens so battery is well flat - I swap battery for another with charge in it.
I go into the car to get the code reader - then I switch on the ignition - then I think go on give it a go - I turn the key AND WITHIN A SECOND IT STARTS!!! :mad:mad:mad

Seriously this car is winding me up or its haunted :eek

SO, then I let it run for a bit as I have missed the rumble from the twin scorpion exhaust....:D
Then I turn it off, clear the codes, start it up again, let it run for 5 mins, turn off and read codes;

70 Camshaft Position sensor
7C Intake air temperature sensor

OK, is there a set order the codes comes out? - order in which they registered?

I then stopped and started it a few more times.

SO, does this mean I have a 'failing' camshaft sensor?

OR

Should I be getting my 318 exorcised? :rofl

Thanks,

Mark.
 
#30 ·
Try the spare key (in case of key transponder EWS issue)

It's as good a random suggestion as any
 
#35 ·
UPDATE: I had a moment of weakness and stuck the car up for sale - BUT then I managed to sort out a plan to save it then sort it out.

I have been under the bonnet and found out the following;

1. There is no 12v feed to the fuel pump - so it doesn't seem to prime nor does it run when cranking.
2. The fuel pump, dme fusebox + dme cover relay and fuse 18 are all fine.
3. When I supply 12v to pin 30 of the fuel pump relay - the pump runs and you can hear fuel swirling in the injector feed.
4. There doesn't seem to be a spark at cyl1 when cranking.
5. The DME & cubby hole is bone dry and covered in dust, floaty seeds and small leaves with no sign of water ingress.

So my questions,
A. Why wouldn't the fuel pump prime if relays & connections are fine?
B. What stops the fuel pump running when cranking?
C. Whats the easiest way to test the dme is working ok?

No spark could be due to faulty cam or crank sensor which I haven't checked yet, but I'm more concerned about the lack of action at the fuel pump before I start checking the sensors, coils, etc...

Your advice appreciated as always :)

Thx

Mark.
 
#38 ·
Just had a thought.

If my EWS is disabled/bypassed due to aftermarket thatcham cat 1 total closure system being installed on my coupe - could the OBC play any role in disabling it from starting?

I ask because you can do the 'code' thing on it?
My OBC is the Harry Enfield one with loooooooadsa buttons :)

Thx

Mark.
 
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