[RABUL]

Update as promised. Slaving the valve from chr15gb (thanks again mate) electrically into the circuit changed the symptoms on my DIS, suggesting it was a throttle valve rather than a wiring problem. As expected there was no movement of the valve. I therefore went ahead and ordered a replacement (used) throttle vale from Quarry Motors (£65 incl P&P) which I received today. Slaving this in and starting the car the throttle valve immediately moved to the nearly closed position at idle. When I shut down it went fully closed before opening again when the engine stopped. I am therefore pretty confident I have solved the problem, but will need a bit of time to clean the EGR when I actually replace the throttle valve so I probably won't do this for a week or so as I have a lot on at the moment. Many thanks again both for the advice on this forum and also to chr15gb in particular for his practical help. When I remove my valve I will also open it up and report again any findings.

 

[RABUL]

Finally got around to cleaning my EGR valve and fitting the replacement throttle valve. Happy to report that all is now working as it should. I took the top off my broken throttle valve and the internals including the circuit board were all swimming in oil and diesel. No obvious signs of the same burnt contacts that chr15gb had, but the valve was clearly defective. Let's hope the replacement stays good. Thanks again for all the advice and practical help.

 

[Jase burton]

Does anyone think oil contamination could cause this to buzz constant, basically mine does still work but it constantly has a buzzing noise coming from the unit even when the car is locked you can hear it buzzing also the car is suffering from a flat battery all time could this be draining my power? Also I have engine light on "increased emissions" just replaced all vacuum pipes so that's not the reason as most suggest but could this buzzing be draining my battery and the reason the engine light is on? Any ideas guys?

 

[veeshy]

Struggling to work out what i need to fix the same issue here, cant seem to find out on ebay

I have a E60 525D 2005

Thanks

 

[streetos]

Does anyone think oil contamination could cause this to buzz constant, basically mine does still work but it constantly has a buzzing noise coming from the unit even when the car is locked you can hear it buzzing also the car is suffering from a flat battery all time could this be draining my power? Also I have engine light on "increased emissions" just replaced all vacuum pipes so that's not the reason as most suggest but could this buzzing be draining my battery and the reason the engine light is on? Any ideas guys?

Increased emissions usually means the EGR valve is not opening and if the throttle valve is buzzing it does sound like it's jammed and may well be causing your battery drain if it's staying powered up after engine shut down. If you take the duct off the EGR/throttle valve and have a look inside you should be able to see how clagged up it is. And if you start the engine and watch the throttle flap as the engine stops you should be able to see close and then open again.

 

[staffordcox]

This has been a really interesting post. Thanks for all the updates guys.

Staff

 

[pjazzy]

I've experienced a similar issue on mine. The engine management light came on whilst I was parking up saying Increased Emissions. The weird thing is that I haven't driven the car hard in a while so I was a bit perplexed.

The car drives normally and I haven't really experienced any more fuel consumption etc. If the EML wasn't lit I wouldn't even know there is an issue.

Checked the error codes with DIS and its the 43E2 code. Took it to the mechanic and he reckons the valve is still mostlyfunctioning but failing on the start up test as it isn't going through the motions fully.

Anyway, my question is the part number of the unit. Mine is 7 804 384 01. I have found one online with the part number 7 804 384 04. Does the whole number have to match exactly? If it doesn't does it require coding?

On the realeom website the part number is 7 804 384 with the last 2 digits missing, so is this just the manufacturing revision and they are all interchangeable?

Can anyone help?

 

[RABUL]

I think you will find it fits OK. However, since you don't have complete failure I'd be tempted to take it off and give it a good clean and try again before spending money.

 

[IncarMotorFactors]

Anyway, my question is the part number of the unit. Mine is 7 804 384 01. I have found one online with the part number 7 804 384 04. Does the whole number have to match exactly? If it doesn't does it require coding?

On the realeom website the part number is 7 804 384 with the last 2 digits missing, so is this just the manufacturing revision and they are all interchangeable?

Can anyone help?

I wouldn't worry too much about those extra two digits, the actual BMW number is 7804384. The full part number is 11717804384. We sell tons of these (seem to be a common fault) and the same ones are used from BMW 1 series all the way to the 7 series.

Pierburg Throttle Body For Diesel Models - Incar Motor Factors

 

[M@tt]

Funnily enough I took my egr apart today as I had error codes relating to it.

On inspection I found the butterfly to be really notchy in its movement so using a screwdriver I popped the back off it and found both cogs had the teeth stripped

So I'll be needing a new one

 

[pjazzy]

Thanks for the update guys.

M@tt - do you have the EML stating increased emissions? Has it caused any issues when driving the car? My mechanic told me that it is related to the traction control but so far all has been ok.

 

[M@tt]

No the 2 error codes I have are
483D throttle actuator
4687 throttle valve actuator

Not really noticed any difference if I'm honest

Although there might be a little stutter when I turn engine off as I think it's used to cut of air to engine to give smooth instant cut off

 

[eaf]

Hi guys,
I've got the same error now so going for the throttle valve replacement by buying a used part. Does the part need coding or updating by BMW once fitted?
Hope you can help,
Cheers
Ian

 

[chr15gb]

No coding, just plug and prey.....

 

[E4RTH WORM JIM]

I have the P2620 fault code on my 530d.

I assume my actuator is full of oil like others in this thread. Does anyone have a guide to change this part?

And what is the function of the EGR valve?

Thanks

 

[chr15gb]

You don't need a guide, just disconnect the big fat hose, unplug the throttle valve, release the three philips screws holding it on and remove.

The EGR pushes exhaust gases back into the inlet manifold to be re-combusted to keep te tree huggers marginally less infuriated.

 

[E4RTH WORM JIM]

Thanks

 

[Jake_butcher]

I know this is an older thread, but as I have a lot of oil leakage from around this area, coupled with a strange buzzing noise It time to take it off and give it a good inspection. Really useful info though, thanks very much guys

 

[cristypuff]

any ideea to repair this part?

 

[gulas.michal]

any ideea to repair this part?