2004 E60 525D Engine misfire

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  1. 2004 E60 525D Engine misfire 
    #1
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    I have just replaced the main thermostat and EGR thermostat and found it a reasonably staight forward job (bit fiddly getting the T45 Torx screws out of the manifold).
    Engine temp never got above 75 degrees before ... now a steady 90 degrees.
    THE PROBLEM .... as soon as I drove the car after I'd finished the job the engine 'misfired'. I know it's a diesel and can't misfire but this is the best way to explain the fault, its exactly like a petrol engine where ignition cuts out for a second. It will run ok for a while, then for second or two it will cut out ... then stutters ... then ok ... then stutters. I then got an 'Excess Emissions' error warning on IDrive and engine light (in yellow) is now illuminated on dash. I assume the problems are connected.
    It was running perfectly before I did the thermostats so has anyone got an ideas what I could have upset.
    For safety reasons I disconnected the battery +ve lead before doing the job ... but I've disconnected it a few times in the past when doing other jobs without any problems, so can't see that this is the cause.
    Could I have upset any sensors ( quite a bit of cooling water ran down the front of the engine when I was bleeding the air out of the EGR bleed screw) could this have got in to any electrics?
    Any suggestions most welcomed.
     
     

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    Firstly, always remove the negative lead from the battery first.

    Your problem with the misfire was possibly always there, but not present due to lower running temps. It could be injectors, or worn cylinders/rings.
     
     

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    Hignly unlikely to be worn rings/cylinders.

    You need to get the engine fault codes read at a BMW specialists, the ECU will have stored a fault.
     
     

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    Before getting too worried about engine wear check you refitted your inlet pipes correctly. When I did my thermostat I removed the flexible pipe from the inlet filter box (to allow improved access to those T45 Torx screws) and also the pipe from the intercooler (at the bottom of the radiator RHS looking from the engine front) ) up to the manifold inlet at the EGR valve. Even if you didn't remove the latter you may have disturbed it pullling the radiator fan out, so double check it is fitted correctly and not leaking. If all Ok then I agree you probably need to get the codes looked at.
     
     

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    I have just got home from having both stats changed at birds of Iver - she sits between 88 - 93 C during driving, went up a little to 96 standing outside the house, she feels so much better!!!
    Plan a long motorway drive to nowhere tommorow with at least 1/2 a tank of shell's finest diesel
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    Quote Originally Posted by P1000 View Post
    Firstly, always remove the negative lead from the battery first.

    Your problem with the misfire was possibly always there, but not present due to lower running temps. It could be injectors, or worn cylinders/rings.
    Thanks P100
    Only drove 100yds before 'misfire' started ... and engine was fine day before so unlikely to be mechanical wear.
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
    Hignly unlikely to be worn rings/cylinders.

    You need to get the engine fault codes read at a BMW specialists, the ECU will have stored a fault.
    Thanks for reply Ronnie
    If I can't sort out what the issue is, I'll have no option but to get codes read ... just trying to avoid cost and hoping it was something simple.
     
     

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    I guess you would have unplugged the Mass Airflow meter when you did it? Is that plugged back in ok? Did you take off the EGR cooler? To do that you would have probably removed the inlet pipe to the turbo and that has a couple of cables clipped to it (on its left hand side as you look at it). You haven't trapped one of these cables or pulled it out have you? Are they still clipped in place and not up the inside (righthand side as you look at it) of the pipe? Also if you took the cooler off, the corrigated pipe down to the manifold can get brittle with age, it didn't split when you were moving things about did it? Did you make sure the two bolts holding this pipe to the exhaust manifold were tight? There are also two electrical plugs to the top left of the radiator that you might have unplugged.
    If all else fails, have a look up your EGR pipe by removing the pipe from the intercooler. You car might not have been running the egr valve if it was running cold (some things like this are temp dependent). Now that you car is running warm again it might be running the EGR again and that could be blocked up. This make a big differance on the EU4 E60 because it has an additional flap that shuts off the pipe from the intercooler whilst the EGR valve is open. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...69&hg=11&fg=40 I have been quite involved with this area after my EGR cooler sprung an internal leak....very scarey symptoms!
     
     

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    Quote Originally Posted by kwempe View Post
    I guess you would have unplugged the Mass Airflow meter when you did it? Is that plugged back in ok? Did you take off the EGR cooler? To do that you would have probably removed the inlet pipe to the turbo and that has a couple of cables clipped to it (on its left hand side as you look at it). You haven't trapped one of these cables or pulled it out have you? Are they still clipped in place and not up the inside (righthand side as you look at it) of the pipe? Also if you took the cooler off, the corrigated pipe down to the manifold can get brittle with age, it didn't split when you were moving things about did it? Did you make sure the two bolts holding this pipe to the exhaust manifold were tight? There are also two electrical plugs to the top left of the radiator that you might have unplugged.
    If all else fails, have a look up your EGR pipe by removing the pipe from the intercooler. You car might not have been running the egr valve if it was running cold (some things like this are temp dependent). Now that you car is running warm again it might be running the EGR again and that could be blocked up. This make a big differance on the EU4 E60 because it has an additional flap that shuts off the pipe from the intercooler whilst the EGR valve is open. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...69&hg=11&fg=40 I have been quite involved with this area after my EGR cooler sprung an internal leak....very scarey symptoms!
    could you repeat that in English this time??
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    Quote Originally Posted by 530kam View Post
    could you repeat that in English this time??
    我猜你会拔掉群众气流米时,你做的吗?那是插回好吗?你脱下EGR冷却器?要做到这一点,你将有可能取消了 进气管的涡轮增压和具有它的裁剪电缆夫妇(在其左侧,你看它)。您还没有这些电缆之一被困或拉出来了吧?他 们仍然夹在了地方,而不是内部(右手边,你看它)的管道?此外,如果你把凉关闭,corrigated管下 到流形可以随着年龄的脆性,它并没有分裂,当你搬东西约谁干的?你确定两个螺栓持有这条管道的排气管的紧? 也有两对,你可能有散热器拔掉电器插头的左上角。
    如果一切都失败了,一看就通过消除废气再循环冷却器管你管。您可能没有车已投放EGR阀如果正在运行冷(有 些事情是这样的温度而定)。现在,你的车运行再次温暖,它可能再次运行废气再循环系统,并可能被阻止了。这 使对欧4 E60大异,因为它有一个附加的皮瓣切断虽然从冷EGR阀打开管道。 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...22495;!

    Ok for ya
     
     

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